I'd like to see you practice BACKING the kite from inverted and forget all about this forward drive stuff. Eventually you must master control an inch above the ground. This is a lot easier with the weight on the bottom (leading edge inverted).
Here's the session outline.
Start with the kite inverted, sitting on the ground and back-up (fly in reverse by pushing your thumbs at the kite) to waist or shoulder height. STOP and hover. Then lower it gently back to mother earth. Repeat this five times with the objective of a smoother flight speed in both directions and straight lines. You may find that smaller handle movements combined with moving your feet helps tremendously, particularly in low wind.
Okay next, double the objective height and try it all over again. You may find you need to shorten your brake (bottom) lines by pulling in the bottom leaders, or letting out the tops. Eventually you want to be able to do this flight path to the very top of the wind window, like it was riding on railroad tracks, following a laser beam! This will take many hundreds of hours to perfect and make effortless looking.
When you get bored go fly as you usually would, but keep coming back to the inverted session. If your revolution kite will not back-up you might as well can cut off two strings because you are not using the kite as it is can be ("demonstrated the quad-line effect?" is the name for this asked question in judge-speech)
What you are doing by adding all of this down is a benefit to low wind flight too,... here's why. You are pulling the sail more square to the wind's maximum pressure. If you held a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in a wind tunnel, which path of the wind would place maximum pressure on your plywood? If you angled the wood in any direction some of the wind pressure would spill off, right?
When in doubt about tuning ALWAYS add down first and see if that is an improvement.
You'll eventually have to break the habits of all forward drive tuning, if you ever want to gain mastery on a revolution kite. We all learned to scream to the top of the window with forward drive first. Don't waste the next seven years to change like I did!
My current setting for leader lengths is the tops are 300 to 400% longer than the bottoms. I make all my tuning adjustments using the bottom leaders (so the tops are always the same length, muscle memory for 3-D tricks). Handle length dictates the top leader length. I want it "just short" of reaching the bottom leader attachment point. Longer handles get longer leaders. Choices are personal,... do what feels right to you, the path doesn't matter only the destination!
- Captainbob likes this