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awindofchange

Member Since 26 Jun 2006
Offline Last Active Mar 27 2015 02:31 PM
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#91178 "B" series vs. "B" series pro

Posted by awindofchange on 20 December 2012 - 11:26 AM

You are most welcome.

 

John B.  Edit now seems to be working so I edited my original and deleted the duplicate.  Thanks.




#91137 "B" series vs. "B" series pro

Posted by awindofchange on 19 December 2012 - 10:18 AM

PC-31 is Icarex's method of designating what the fabric is.  It stands for polyester carbonate at 31 grams per sq. meter.  Icarex is also a company owned by VliegerOp (aka. Peter Lynn Products) in the Netherlands.  Regardless if it is Texlon or Icarex or whatever brand, it is all polyester reinforced ripstop material.  Icarex tends to be what everyone quotes as "the" best material, truthfully there are many different designations for Icarex material.  It is like saying an adjustable end wrench is a Crescent wrench.  Crescent is the brand name that originally manufactured the adjustable end wrench - These days, there are many manufactures that make adjustable end wrenches.  Some brands are better than others and you can argue that Snap-On or MAC makes a better "crescent" wrench than Crescent does....

 

The big difference is not necessarily the fabric itself, but the coatings that are used on that fabric.  Icarex has a special way of coating their fabrics that works exceptionally well for kites without adding a lot of weight and lasting a very long time.  It is also coated on both sides where as some other manufacturers may (or may not) only coat on one side.  The cost on the fabrics are all pretty close in price and usually when a manufacturer such as Revolution chooses a particular fabric for it's B-Series kites, it is chosen on color more than manufacturer and price.  Icarex is a company that produces a majority of material for the kiting industry, so that is usually what most companies tend to choose, but if a certain color or style is not available from Icarex, then other manufacturers are considered. 

 

Most people would never "feel" or know what fabric is actually used in their kite without physically looking at the material, they are all so close to each other in quality and weight that it is difficult to know unless you have spent thousands of hours flying each type and style in the same wind conditions...then you may be able to feel a difference from the pilots end.  As you change from Ripstop Polyester to Ripstop Nylon, the differences become much more noticable but it would be exceptionally difficult to tell the difference between a sail that was made with 100% Icarex brand materials and one that was say 50% Icarex and 50% Texlon.

 

That being said - and the fact that this topic is noted as differences between the B-Pro and standard B....

You can most definately tell the difference in overall flight and control between a normal production line B-Series kite and a hand made custom B-Pro produced by Bazzar.  The difference is not so much the material used, but more in the details and the tedius way that Bazzar assembles each kite.  Bazzar does things on the B-Pro that would just be too expensive and time consuming for Revolution to do on each of it's B-Series, things such as the extra details on the leading edge ends and the finishing details on the trailing edges amoung other things.

 

Hope that helps, this is the best of my knowledge of what I have heard/learned from others who are much more experienced in materials and such than I am.  Please forgive me if any of this is not correct.




#90881 Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals

Posted by awindofchange on 26 November 2012 - 11:15 AM

Hey everyone, just wanted to drop a note that we are offering a couple deals for Black Friday and today, Cyber Monday.

1st deal: We are offering a special free ground shipping on all orders over $50.00 (U.S. destinations only).

2nd deal: Enter in the discount code: blackfriday5 during checkout and save an additional 5% off of your entire order! Combine this with your AKA and you can save 15% off of your brand new shiny Revolution kite!

3rd deal: We're still offering a Race Frame upgrade on all B-Series and B2's for a buck!

These deals will be available for the rest of this week, ENDS FRIDAY! So let all your friends know that they no longer have to borrow your Rev and can now get their own! LOL

Shop and save! http://www.awindofchange.com/


#87310 Kite buggying hits NABX Rev style!

Posted by awindofchange on 02 April 2012 - 01:34 PM

So here's my buddy hitting 34.3 mph buggying with his 1.5 SLE at our NABX event. Need to get that boy a Blast!






#86915 Sneak preview

Posted by awindofchange on 13 March 2012 - 10:22 AM

Special Limited.

Iridescent wrap gives these rods a reflective bling that is totally awesome. The carbon and wrap is the same as the normal RACE rods.

So how do you get these ultra sexy rods? Can you just order them from your local shop? um..no... Can you order them from Rev? um..no... Do they come in some special ultra fancy "Ultra Rev" kite that has not yet been released........


I guess the master Ben will have to clue us all in on just how you get a set of these beauties.




AFIK, there isn't any new ultra rev...but it would be kewl if there were.


#85782 Newbie with Shockwave

Posted by awindofchange on 26 December 2011 - 01:39 PM

You picked one of the most difficult Revs to fly to learn on. BUT, you also picked one of my all time favorite and most exciting Revs. Having all four lines equal is a must. The Shockwave and sonic are so fast and twitchy, differences in the line lengths will make it much harder to learn on. These kites are very fast and sensitive to input. The best thing to do is to really concentrate on your controls. Any twitch or movement in the handles will be amplified on the kite and done fast!!! Practice keeping your hands exactly equal and launch the kite straight up. Going straight up makes it harder to slam into the ground. :) Once the kite is up, slowly start applying brake line tension (bottom lines) until the kite starts to descend back down backwards. Stop pulling and let gravity bring the kite down, only apply more brake line tension as needed to keep the kite level and/or dropping until it softly lands back on the ground. If one wing starts to go high, apply a little more brake line tension to that side to bring it down with the other one. Do this several times until you get the feel of how sensitive the kite is and also get the feel on how to stop this speed demon when needed.

After mastering this, then try to do the same but this time only going half way up. After a bit, try doing the same but only letting the kite come about 4-6 feet (1-2 meters) above the ground. Hold it there and then back it back down to the ground.

Doing these simple maneuvers will give you a ton of knowledge on how the kite flies and controls. From there you can start to fly the kite back and forth, learning how hard (soft) you need to pull each brake line to get the kite to turn.

Hope this helps. Keep on practicing with the kite, it is difficult to learn on the speed series kites but so very worth it in the end.


#85781 Trying to get permission to use facilities?

Posted by awindofchange on 26 December 2011 - 01:30 PM

Education is the key. Your laptop (videos) and a kite would be best, so they can see exactly what you are trying to do.

Being such a new idea to most people, they really don't understand what indoor flying is really about. Once educated they may not be so quick to say no. Also, talking to the dork at the front desk is usually not the best way. Try to go straight to the ones that can make the decisions, educate them and your chances will be much more in your favor.

Approach is another thing. Just walking in and saying "Hey, I want to fly a kite in your gym." will get you that dreaded Two-Headded-Monster look. Saying "Hi there, I am a professional Kite Flyer and I was wondering if it would be possible for me to work on my indoor flying skills in your gym?" peaks their interest and they are now more likely to ask questions about the sport and once you get them talking about it, they become more acceptable of it.

Hope that helps.


#83887 Rev B 1.5 or B 2

Posted by awindofchange on 15 September 2011 - 02:22 PM

If you are wanting to replace your EXP then the 1.5 or B-Series would be a perfect choice. If you want something different than your EXP but still plan on keeping your EXP around and flying it, the B2 would give you that difference in flight. :) For stronger winds the B2 is a riot to fly. Much quicker, nearly no pull and twitchy - but still able to pull of some very nice precision.


#82529 Blast vs. Shockwave/Supersonic?

Posted by awindofchange on 01 August 2011 - 12:01 PM

Sure thing. The biggest differences between the Blast, the 2-4 and the 4-8 is power and overall precision. The larger the kite, the more power it produces but the less precision it has. I think it is mainly due to the amount of mass that the kites have, not really the size. The 4-8 weighs a ton compared to a 1.5, this is from the larger sail area but also from the heavy duty spars that need to be used in the kite to support the power. When you get all that weight moving, it takes a ton of counter-steering to get it to stop.

The 2-4 is just like the Blast but bigger. Sorry to point out the obvious but that is really it. It pulls harder, flies a little slower but still faster than a 1.5 series and will have a ton of oversteer when you get the kite spinning and want to come out of it. The float on the 2-4 is really cool though, you can do a lot more with it in the lighter wind ranges (below 5 mph). It takes a very delicate hand in the light winds and it will seem to float on its belly for ever. Glides away from you are really fun and side slides are smooth and very floaty. When the winds start to get up around 8+, the power comes on and you better put some rocks in your pockets to hold you down once you get the kite moving.

The most awesome thing about the 2-4 is that if you control the brake lines, you can take the kite up in a very strong wind and it won't be pulling hardly at all but let the brake lines lose and it rockets forward and will yank you out of your shoes. :) :) :) It is really fun.

Another difference with the power series kites is that the sensitivity between depower and full power gets more sensitive as the kite gets bigger. The 2-4 has a setting on the handles that is about 2 inches from maximum power or "barely not stalling" to where the kite starts dumping power and floats. On the 4-8, this is about 1 inch movement. The Blast it is about 3-4 inches of movement. In the "Floaty" or "Depower" position, you can stand flat footed and hold the kites with two fingers on the handles. When you crank in the brake lines and put the power back in the kite, you need to have a good solid grip or it will yank the handles out of your hands. This is really cool because you can fly it aggressively and be dragging around but just flick the wrists and drop the brake lines out and the kite loses nearly all pull and you can relax.

Another difference is that with the 2-4, you tend to move your hands down lower on the handles than you normally fly a Rev, with the 4-8, the handles are specially made with two bends in each handle and you fly it with your hands nearly in the middle of the handles between the top and bottom lines. You can't fly it with your hands on the top like normal Revs. Also, with the 4-8, it is almost necessary to pull in one handle before initiating turns, similar to flying a Dual Line kite. If you don't pull in hard on the side you want to turn, the kite turns very slowly and not nearly as responsive. The 2-4 has a tiny bit of this same behavior but not nearly as required as the 4-8.

They are all very fun to fly and the 2-4 an 4-8 work excellent in a buggy if you are wanting high speed runs and have a lot of room to get the buggy up to the speed of the kite.
The 4-8 is a beast and can be cumbersome to fly without a buggy or board to get it moving. The Blast and the 2-4 would be better choices at the park and static flying. Longer lines also give these kites more sky to play in before hitting the edge of the window and needing to be turned around.

Hope that helps.


#82502 Blast vs. Shockwave/Supersonic?

Posted by awindofchange on 31 July 2011 - 06:26 PM

The Supersonic is the smallest of the three you mention, still larger than the Rev II though.

The Shockwave is about 2 inches longer and about 2-3 inches taller. Although this is only a tiny amount, it does slow the kite down a smidge but increases the overall pull by a bunch. Both the Shockwave and the Supersonic will pull twice or more than a normal 1.5.

I would be very hesitant to say they were light wind kites. They will float incredibly well so they do fly in the lighter winds but it takes a ton of skill to master. IMO, light wind is NOT what these kites are built for. They are fast and will put a huge grin on your face just putting the spars in and getting it ready for flight. NOT your first rev though, they are twitchy and mega fast so you really have to think well in front of the kite, snaps of the wrist will be 360's, dive stops are so quick you will lose the kite. They really are awesome to fly and the Sonic is my most favorite kite in the right winds. I normally won't pull either of these kites out unless the winds are above 10mph. Thats where I feel these kites really come into their own and are funnest to fly.

The Blast is much bigger than both of these. The larger sail area does slow the kite down a bit so it is not as fast as the Sonic or the Shockwave. Still, it is much faster to fly than the 1.5's, I would say about as fast as the Rev II but with a ton more pull. The Blast will pull harder than the Shockwave will, I would say it is a very good middle between the 1.5 and the Power Blast 2-4. Light wind performance on the Blast is much better than the speed series but it still takes tons of experience and technique. I wouldn't really call flying it in winds under 5 mph that fun, but it can be done with a bit of effort. It will not replace a 2 wrap B-series or SUL. In the lighter winds, the Blast also has a ton of float so gliding it back and forth is pretty cool, again it takes time to figure out how to fly it in the light stuff. Stronger winds (5+ mph) it starts to behave like a normal Rev with a bunch of oversteer, 10+ mph and it is a "Blast" to fly! (pun intended)

All of these kites can do everything that the 1.5 series can do, you just have to realize that the Speed Series will do it much faster and will be much more twitchy when doing it. Hovers are not going to be nearly as smooth and precise and side slides - awesome fast but not nearly as controllable (or graceful) as the 1.5 sized kites or the Rev 1. As for the Blast and control, the larger mass of the kite makes it harder to pull precision out of it. When coming out of spins or turns it will have a ton of oversteer and you need to counter-react to get the kite to snap or stop turning. Speed is fun and the pull is really cool to play with.

If you are looking for ultimate precision and control, these kites are probably not what you are looking for. If you are looking for something totally exciting and different than what the 1.5 series kites are, these kites will quench your thirst!!!

If I was to rate these in the amount of air time mine get, it would be Sonic first, Sonic Vented second, Shockwave and then Blast.

Hope that helps.


#80721 Advice for a newcomer please

Posted by awindofchange on 07 June 2011 - 01:16 PM

I agree, go out with the standard 3 wrap and medium winds and you will be fine. I wouldn't worry about doubling up the leading edge unless the winds are very strong. These rods are exceptionally strong for what they are and in winds under 10 mph, you would have to hit something very solid such as concrete or fence pole to do any damage to the kite. It just won't have that much inertia in the lighter winds to worry about.


#80016 Shanti Skybond

Posted by awindofchange on 10 May 2011 - 09:56 AM

One of the advantages with the polymer bonded line (Skybond) is that the weave is coated. This helps reduce the possibility of sand or dust particles working their way into the center of the lines. The lines don't discolor nearly as fast as normal unbonded line. You don't end up with those nasty brownish looking lines and they don't get all "gritty" feeling after flying on the beach for a length of time.

Speed line is still Shanti's flagship line. Skybond is the newest creation and although Speed line does win out on some of the controlled internal factory tests, I personally find that in the field, Skybond is superior. It is much more slicker than any other line I have ever used, it is also thinner in diameter and I like the yellow color because it is so much easier to see on the ground than the white. I also feel more direct connection to the kite while flying, definitely no bungee feeling at all. I am not sure why they claim that Skybond has more stretch, this is not what I have discovered except in the initial pre-stretching. Skybond does stretch out a little more during the pre-stretch process, but once you get a good solid pre-stretch there is very little difference (if any) to Speed line or even LPG.

All three of these lines are the top lines in the industry and (IMO) these three lines far exceed any of the other brands of line. I don't think you would go wrong with any one of them. For me personally, I really love the feel of the new Skybond over the other two and find it's slickness far exceeds the others. Your best bet is to try it out and see for yourself.


#73200 how to make line sets

Posted by awindofchange on 13 September 2010 - 10:20 PM

Sorry if my method is not as perfect as yours Teresa.

My method as described above has the two stakes 1 foot longer than the actual length of the set. The first line has a loop in it already, so pulling 12 inches past the second stake is plenty and doesn't waste a ton of line. When you make the second loop, it too is pulled 12 inches past the first stake, again leaving another foot on the other end plus a little extra after the second loop is tied. The way I figure, if you make 3 inch loops, that uses up approximately 8-9 inches of line (3 inches on each side of the loop, a half inch or so for the knot and about 3/4" on each end for the pigtails depending on how close you want to make it). There really isn't any need to go to a full 18 inches over...but if you have tons of line to waste then heck, go 24 inches or more.

Depending on the size of your sleeving and weight of line, you can fuse it either before or after you sleeve it. Normally I do fuse after sleeving when sleeving 200# line or heavier but for 150# and less, it doesn't really matter. I have done them both ways and never had an issue so whichever way tickles your fancy then have at it.

As far as ripping the stakes out of the ground when you stretch your lines...you obviously don't use the kind of stakes that we do here... sorry that I assumed that the user would have enough brains to stake the lines down with something stronger than a twig.

So, just to clarify the obvious.........
When staking your lines, make sure to use a stake that is strong enough to be pulled against. As most rev's use 90# line, it doesn't have to be something like a 1" rebar buried 20" into the ground....but it should be a fairly strong screwdriver or kite stake that can hold at least 90# of pull against it.

Obviously there are several ways to build line sets. The above is only my way of doing it but as always, YMMV.

When you dig out your writing and find more problems and issues with my method, please let me know so that I can be a better kite person. I am always willing to learn from the elder kite flyers. ;)


#70580 Help

Posted by awindofchange on 29 June 2010 - 03:39 PM

Prism kites sells some tape called Tedlar tape. I like this a lot more than the Ripstop tape as the Tedlar is a clear color and won't show up nearly as bad as the ripstop tape does. Even if you match the color completely, the doubled (or tripled) up color shades differently when in the air. The clear tape doesn't give it a darkened color where the patch is.

For the repair, it is really simple to do. Cut yourself two pieces of tape that are about 1/4" larger than the tear and then use a very flat and clean surface. Lay the sail down flat and match up the tear in the sail so that it is edge to edge, do NOT overlap the tear or it will change the panel size in the kite and adversely effect the way the kite performs. Once the tear is matched up perfectly so that the sail is back to the original shape and size, lay one piece of tape on top of the tear and rub it in good and solid. Then flip the kite over and apply the second piece to the back side.

It is a good idea to round all of the edges of the tape before applying it (not squared off). This makes it more difficult for a tip to catch and start peeling off. If the repair is done this way it should last you for years without any problems.

For large tears you can use a larger piece of tape but it is suggested that you run some stitching around the tear to reinforce the tape. This is only for very large tears (usually 6 inches or more). For small tears or punctures, just tape and fly! :)

We do sell sails only, but for the cost of the tape compared to the cost of the replacement sail it is worth just taping the repair. If done right it is nearly invisible to see and works fine.

Hope that helps.


#68124 supersonic details

Posted by awindofchange on 06 April 2010 - 05:19 PM

I usually won't recommend going with different strength lines on the tops and bottoms of the Blast series kites (or any Revolutions for that matter). This works good for normal foil style power kites as you never have the same amount of tension on the trailing lines as you do on the leading edge lines but the Blast, 2/4 and the 4/8 are quite different than normal foils. When powered up hard you will have just as much or even more tension on the lower lines as you do on the upper lines so going with a lighter weight line on the lowers could invite a catastrophic line failure under stronger wind conditions which could result in a damaged or destroyed kite.

The Blast series kites are shipped with all four lines of equal weight, 150# minimum is supplied on the Blast and on the 2/4 with 200# recommended for power flying and 300# test or more for the 4/8. If you are never going to be flying these kites in the upper wind ranges where they can produce some pretty serious power (10 mph and up) then you will not need the stronger weight lines and 100# line will probably work just fine for you....except on that 4/8, that thing is a beast even in lighter winds! LOL

Under power it would be fairly easy to snap 100# lines on the Blast and the 2/4 and I wouldn't even bother trying them on the 4/8.

Hope this helps.