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awindofchange

Member Since 26 Jun 2006
Offline Last Active Dec 16 2014 06:57 PM
*****

#86915 Sneak preview

Posted by awindofchange on 13 March 2012 - 10:22 AM

Special Limited.

Iridescent wrap gives these rods a reflective bling that is totally awesome. The carbon and wrap is the same as the normal RACE rods.

So how do you get these ultra sexy rods? Can you just order them from your local shop? um..no... Can you order them from Rev? um..no... Do they come in some special ultra fancy "Ultra Rev" kite that has not yet been released........


I guess the master Ben will have to clue us all in on just how you get a set of these beauties.




AFIK, there isn't any new ultra rev...but it would be kewl if there were.


#85782 Newbie with Shockwave

Posted by awindofchange on 26 December 2011 - 01:39 PM

You picked one of the most difficult Revs to fly to learn on. BUT, you also picked one of my all time favorite and most exciting Revs. Having all four lines equal is a must. The Shockwave and sonic are so fast and twitchy, differences in the line lengths will make it much harder to learn on. These kites are very fast and sensitive to input. The best thing to do is to really concentrate on your controls. Any twitch or movement in the handles will be amplified on the kite and done fast!!! Practice keeping your hands exactly equal and launch the kite straight up. Going straight up makes it harder to slam into the ground. :) Once the kite is up, slowly start applying brake line tension (bottom lines) until the kite starts to descend back down backwards. Stop pulling and let gravity bring the kite down, only apply more brake line tension as needed to keep the kite level and/or dropping until it softly lands back on the ground. If one wing starts to go high, apply a little more brake line tension to that side to bring it down with the other one. Do this several times until you get the feel of how sensitive the kite is and also get the feel on how to stop this speed demon when needed.

After mastering this, then try to do the same but this time only going half way up. After a bit, try doing the same but only letting the kite come about 4-6 feet (1-2 meters) above the ground. Hold it there and then back it back down to the ground.

Doing these simple maneuvers will give you a ton of knowledge on how the kite flies and controls. From there you can start to fly the kite back and forth, learning how hard (soft) you need to pull each brake line to get the kite to turn.

Hope this helps. Keep on practicing with the kite, it is difficult to learn on the speed series kites but so very worth it in the end.


#85781 Trying to get permission to use facilities?

Posted by awindofchange on 26 December 2011 - 01:30 PM

Education is the key. Your laptop (videos) and a kite would be best, so they can see exactly what you are trying to do.

Being such a new idea to most people, they really don't understand what indoor flying is really about. Once educated they may not be so quick to say no. Also, talking to the dork at the front desk is usually not the best way. Try to go straight to the ones that can make the decisions, educate them and your chances will be much more in your favor.

Approach is another thing. Just walking in and saying "Hey, I want to fly a kite in your gym." will get you that dreaded Two-Headded-Monster look. Saying "Hi there, I am a professional Kite Flyer and I was wondering if it would be possible for me to work on my indoor flying skills in your gym?" peaks their interest and they are now more likely to ask questions about the sport and once you get them talking about it, they become more acceptable of it.

Hope that helps.


#83887 Rev B 1.5 or B 2

Posted by awindofchange on 15 September 2011 - 02:22 PM

If you are wanting to replace your EXP then the 1.5 or B-Series would be a perfect choice. If you want something different than your EXP but still plan on keeping your EXP around and flying it, the B2 would give you that difference in flight. :) For stronger winds the B2 is a riot to fly. Much quicker, nearly no pull and twitchy - but still able to pull of some very nice precision.


#82529 Blast vs. Shockwave/Supersonic?

Posted by awindofchange on 01 August 2011 - 12:01 PM

Sure thing. The biggest differences between the Blast, the 2-4 and the 4-8 is power and overall precision. The larger the kite, the more power it produces but the less precision it has. I think it is mainly due to the amount of mass that the kites have, not really the size. The 4-8 weighs a ton compared to a 1.5, this is from the larger sail area but also from the heavy duty spars that need to be used in the kite to support the power. When you get all that weight moving, it takes a ton of counter-steering to get it to stop.

The 2-4 is just like the Blast but bigger. Sorry to point out the obvious but that is really it. It pulls harder, flies a little slower but still faster than a 1.5 series and will have a ton of oversteer when you get the kite spinning and want to come out of it. The float on the 2-4 is really cool though, you can do a lot more with it in the lighter wind ranges (below 5 mph). It takes a very delicate hand in the light winds and it will seem to float on its belly for ever. Glides away from you are really fun and side slides are smooth and very floaty. When the winds start to get up around 8+, the power comes on and you better put some rocks in your pockets to hold you down once you get the kite moving.

The most awesome thing about the 2-4 is that if you control the brake lines, you can take the kite up in a very strong wind and it won't be pulling hardly at all but let the brake lines lose and it rockets forward and will yank you out of your shoes. :) :) :) It is really fun.

Another difference with the power series kites is that the sensitivity between depower and full power gets more sensitive as the kite gets bigger. The 2-4 has a setting on the handles that is about 2 inches from maximum power or "barely not stalling" to where the kite starts dumping power and floats. On the 4-8, this is about 1 inch movement. The Blast it is about 3-4 inches of movement. In the "Floaty" or "Depower" position, you can stand flat footed and hold the kites with two fingers on the handles. When you crank in the brake lines and put the power back in the kite, you need to have a good solid grip or it will yank the handles out of your hands. This is really cool because you can fly it aggressively and be dragging around but just flick the wrists and drop the brake lines out and the kite loses nearly all pull and you can relax.

Another difference is that with the 2-4, you tend to move your hands down lower on the handles than you normally fly a Rev, with the 4-8, the handles are specially made with two bends in each handle and you fly it with your hands nearly in the middle of the handles between the top and bottom lines. You can't fly it with your hands on the top like normal Revs. Also, with the 4-8, it is almost necessary to pull in one handle before initiating turns, similar to flying a Dual Line kite. If you don't pull in hard on the side you want to turn, the kite turns very slowly and not nearly as responsive. The 2-4 has a tiny bit of this same behavior but not nearly as required as the 4-8.

They are all very fun to fly and the 2-4 an 4-8 work excellent in a buggy if you are wanting high speed runs and have a lot of room to get the buggy up to the speed of the kite.
The 4-8 is a beast and can be cumbersome to fly without a buggy or board to get it moving. The Blast and the 2-4 would be better choices at the park and static flying. Longer lines also give these kites more sky to play in before hitting the edge of the window and needing to be turned around.

Hope that helps.


#82502 Blast vs. Shockwave/Supersonic?

Posted by awindofchange on 31 July 2011 - 06:26 PM

The Supersonic is the smallest of the three you mention, still larger than the Rev II though.

The Shockwave is about 2 inches longer and about 2-3 inches taller. Although this is only a tiny amount, it does slow the kite down a smidge but increases the overall pull by a bunch. Both the Shockwave and the Supersonic will pull twice or more than a normal 1.5.

I would be very hesitant to say they were light wind kites. They will float incredibly well so they do fly in the lighter winds but it takes a ton of skill to master. IMO, light wind is NOT what these kites are built for. They are fast and will put a huge grin on your face just putting the spars in and getting it ready for flight. NOT your first rev though, they are twitchy and mega fast so you really have to think well in front of the kite, snaps of the wrist will be 360's, dive stops are so quick you will lose the kite. They really are awesome to fly and the Sonic is my most favorite kite in the right winds. I normally won't pull either of these kites out unless the winds are above 10mph. Thats where I feel these kites really come into their own and are funnest to fly.

The Blast is much bigger than both of these. The larger sail area does slow the kite down a bit so it is not as fast as the Sonic or the Shockwave. Still, it is much faster to fly than the 1.5's, I would say about as fast as the Rev II but with a ton more pull. The Blast will pull harder than the Shockwave will, I would say it is a very good middle between the 1.5 and the Power Blast 2-4. Light wind performance on the Blast is much better than the speed series but it still takes tons of experience and technique. I wouldn't really call flying it in winds under 5 mph that fun, but it can be done with a bit of effort. It will not replace a 2 wrap B-series or SUL. In the lighter winds, the Blast also has a ton of float so gliding it back and forth is pretty cool, again it takes time to figure out how to fly it in the light stuff. Stronger winds (5+ mph) it starts to behave like a normal Rev with a bunch of oversteer, 10+ mph and it is a "Blast" to fly! (pun intended)

All of these kites can do everything that the 1.5 series can do, you just have to realize that the Speed Series will do it much faster and will be much more twitchy when doing it. Hovers are not going to be nearly as smooth and precise and side slides - awesome fast but not nearly as controllable (or graceful) as the 1.5 sized kites or the Rev 1. As for the Blast and control, the larger mass of the kite makes it harder to pull precision out of it. When coming out of spins or turns it will have a ton of oversteer and you need to counter-react to get the kite to snap or stop turning. Speed is fun and the pull is really cool to play with.

If you are looking for ultimate precision and control, these kites are probably not what you are looking for. If you are looking for something totally exciting and different than what the 1.5 series kites are, these kites will quench your thirst!!!

If I was to rate these in the amount of air time mine get, it would be Sonic first, Sonic Vented second, Shockwave and then Blast.

Hope that helps.


#80721 Advice for a newcomer please

Posted by awindofchange on 07 June 2011 - 01:16 PM

I agree, go out with the standard 3 wrap and medium winds and you will be fine. I wouldn't worry about doubling up the leading edge unless the winds are very strong. These rods are exceptionally strong for what they are and in winds under 10 mph, you would have to hit something very solid such as concrete or fence pole to do any damage to the kite. It just won't have that much inertia in the lighter winds to worry about.


#80016 Shanti Skybond

Posted by awindofchange on 10 May 2011 - 09:56 AM

One of the advantages with the polymer bonded line (Skybond) is that the weave is coated. This helps reduce the possibility of sand or dust particles working their way into the center of the lines. The lines don't discolor nearly as fast as normal unbonded line. You don't end up with those nasty brownish looking lines and they don't get all "gritty" feeling after flying on the beach for a length of time.

Speed line is still Shanti's flagship line. Skybond is the newest creation and although Speed line does win out on some of the controlled internal factory tests, I personally find that in the field, Skybond is superior. It is much more slicker than any other line I have ever used, it is also thinner in diameter and I like the yellow color because it is so much easier to see on the ground than the white. I also feel more direct connection to the kite while flying, definitely no bungee feeling at all. I am not sure why they claim that Skybond has more stretch, this is not what I have discovered except in the initial pre-stretching. Skybond does stretch out a little more during the pre-stretch process, but once you get a good solid pre-stretch there is very little difference (if any) to Speed line or even LPG.

All three of these lines are the top lines in the industry and (IMO) these three lines far exceed any of the other brands of line. I don't think you would go wrong with any one of them. For me personally, I really love the feel of the new Skybond over the other two and find it's slickness far exceeds the others. Your best bet is to try it out and see for yourself.


#73200 how to make line sets

Posted by awindofchange on 13 September 2010 - 10:20 PM

Sorry if my method is not as perfect as yours Teresa.

My method as described above has the two stakes 1 foot longer than the actual length of the set. The first line has a loop in it already, so pulling 12 inches past the second stake is plenty and doesn't waste a ton of line. When you make the second loop, it too is pulled 12 inches past the first stake, again leaving another foot on the other end plus a little extra after the second loop is tied. The way I figure, if you make 3 inch loops, that uses up approximately 8-9 inches of line (3 inches on each side of the loop, a half inch or so for the knot and about 3/4" on each end for the pigtails depending on how close you want to make it). There really isn't any need to go to a full 18 inches over...but if you have tons of line to waste then heck, go 24 inches or more.

Depending on the size of your sleeving and weight of line, you can fuse it either before or after you sleeve it. Normally I do fuse after sleeving when sleeving 200# line or heavier but for 150# and less, it doesn't really matter. I have done them both ways and never had an issue so whichever way tickles your fancy then have at it.

As far as ripping the stakes out of the ground when you stretch your lines...you obviously don't use the kind of stakes that we do here... sorry that I assumed that the user would have enough brains to stake the lines down with something stronger than a twig.

So, just to clarify the obvious.........
When staking your lines, make sure to use a stake that is strong enough to be pulled against. As most rev's use 90# line, it doesn't have to be something like a 1" rebar buried 20" into the ground....but it should be a fairly strong screwdriver or kite stake that can hold at least 90# of pull against it.

Obviously there are several ways to build line sets. The above is only my way of doing it but as always, YMMV.

When you dig out your writing and find more problems and issues with my method, please let me know so that I can be a better kite person. I am always willing to learn from the elder kite flyers. ;)


#70580 Help

Posted by awindofchange on 29 June 2010 - 03:39 PM

Prism kites sells some tape called Tedlar tape. I like this a lot more than the Ripstop tape as the Tedlar is a clear color and won't show up nearly as bad as the ripstop tape does. Even if you match the color completely, the doubled (or tripled) up color shades differently when in the air. The clear tape doesn't give it a darkened color where the patch is.

For the repair, it is really simple to do. Cut yourself two pieces of tape that are about 1/4" larger than the tear and then use a very flat and clean surface. Lay the sail down flat and match up the tear in the sail so that it is edge to edge, do NOT overlap the tear or it will change the panel size in the kite and adversely effect the way the kite performs. Once the tear is matched up perfectly so that the sail is back to the original shape and size, lay one piece of tape on top of the tear and rub it in good and solid. Then flip the kite over and apply the second piece to the back side.

It is a good idea to round all of the edges of the tape before applying it (not squared off). This makes it more difficult for a tip to catch and start peeling off. If the repair is done this way it should last you for years without any problems.

For large tears you can use a larger piece of tape but it is suggested that you run some stitching around the tear to reinforce the tape. This is only for very large tears (usually 6 inches or more). For small tears or punctures, just tape and fly! :)

We do sell sails only, but for the cost of the tape compared to the cost of the replacement sail it is worth just taping the repair. If done right it is nearly invisible to see and works fine.

Hope that helps.


#68124 supersonic details

Posted by awindofchange on 06 April 2010 - 05:19 PM

I usually won't recommend going with different strength lines on the tops and bottoms of the Blast series kites (or any Revolutions for that matter). This works good for normal foil style power kites as you never have the same amount of tension on the trailing lines as you do on the leading edge lines but the Blast, 2/4 and the 4/8 are quite different than normal foils. When powered up hard you will have just as much or even more tension on the lower lines as you do on the upper lines so going with a lighter weight line on the lowers could invite a catastrophic line failure under stronger wind conditions which could result in a damaged or destroyed kite.

The Blast series kites are shipped with all four lines of equal weight, 150# minimum is supplied on the Blast and on the 2/4 with 200# recommended for power flying and 300# test or more for the 4/8. If you are never going to be flying these kites in the upper wind ranges where they can produce some pretty serious power (10 mph and up) then you will not need the stronger weight lines and 100# line will probably work just fine for you....except on that 4/8, that thing is a beast even in lighter winds! LOL

Under power it would be fairly easy to snap 100# lines on the Blast and the 2/4 and I wouldn't even bother trying them on the 4/8.

Hope this helps.


#57842 Line winding with minimal twists/tangles, iQuad style...

Posted by awindofchange on 02 September 2009 - 10:09 AM

Ok, I must butt in here for a second.

Everything that has been said is pretty much spot on and great advice. If you have multiple Rev's and share linesets and handles between them all then this is probably the best way to take care of your lines.

That being said.....what if you only have one Rev?

Well, most beginners who are having difficulty with their lines do only have one Rev, one lineset and one set of handles. So here's what I tell people when they are first starting out.

Leave the lines completely attached!!!

If you are not going to be swapping lines from one Rev to another, there's really no reason to undo the lines at all. And what was said to me when I first started is "If you put the kite away with all four lines straight and connected right, they will be that way when you get it out again".

So here's what I recommend for people who only have one Rev and don't want to disconnect/reconnect the lines every time. We'll start with putting the kite away after flying first.

1) make sure all lines are straight with no twists and land the kite. Stake it down either leading edge up or down, doesn't matter.

2) Grab your Rev sleeve and winder, walk to the kite. From behind the kite, move it forward about 5 feet to slack the lines and carefully take the kite down and roll it up. Your flying lines still attached. This will give you a little bit of slack with the lines as they are wrapped around the kite a couple wraps as you roll the kite up. Don't worry about the flying lines at all.

3) Slide the kite into the sleeve, letting all four lines run out of the sleeve on the top.

4) Tuck the sleeve under your arm and pull any slack out of the lines so that all four lines are tight against the stake / handles.

5) Start winding all four lines onto your winder - start about 6 inches from the end of the sleeve. You may have some extra slack line drooping down between the winder and the kite, that is normal. Start winding with all four lines tight against the stake. Wind the lines snug onto the winder, not loose. Keep winding all the way up to your handles.

6) When you get close to your handles make sure that you DO NOT PULL THE HANDLES OFF OF YOUR STAKE!!! You need to wind right down to the ground so your handles stay staked to the ground. If you pull the handles off of the stake they will flip, twist and spin giving you twists in your lines that you will have to take back out when you re-set up your kite. Wind DOWN to your handles about 6-8 inches from them and then secure the lines with the bungee on the winder.

7) Carefully stuff any extra drooping line into the bag as you carefully slide the lines and winder into the top of the sleeve. Slide the winder down in the sleeve as far as possible - at least 12" or more. Once you get the winder inside the sleeve, carefully pick the handles up off the stake so they don't flip around and slide them into the top of the bag above the winder. Slide them down far enough so that you can secure the top of the bag by either folding over the flap or pulling the drawstring - depending on which type of sleeve you have.

8) Pull your stake out of the ground and your ready to depart. :) Don't forget your stake.

Ok, now we come to setting the kite up to fly the next day:

1) Stick stake into the ground firm.

2) Carefully pull the handles out of the bag, keeping them from twisting, flipping of going inside themselves. Set them on the stake so that either the brake lines or top lines are on the stake (depending on which way you packed the kite up the last time - either leading edge up or leading edge down). If you can't remember which way you packed it away last time, just stake one end - it should be fine.

3) carefully slide the lines out of the bag - again keeping them from flipping or twisting. Undo the bungee and start walking backwards as you let the lines back off the winder.

4) When you get to the end of the winder and all the line is out, carefully slide the kite out of the bag, unroll and set it up. All four lines should separate as you set the kite up. Park the kite either leading edge up or down depending on how you set your handles on the stake.

5) grab the bag, walk up to your stake, carefully pick up the handles and within one or two twists (if any) you should be ready to launch!

I usually pick up the handles and then slide the bag onto the stake with either the draw string or handle of the bag so that 1 - my bag doesn't blow away and 2 - so myself and others can easily see the stake in the ground.

I don't want to contradict anything that has been said above, it is all very sound and solid advice. But if you only have one Rev, many people who I have taught seem to have very good luck doing their lines this way and I hope that it helps anyone else out there who is also struggling with their lines.

The main bit of advice is that once you find a way to do your lines that works - stick with it!!! There really isn't any one true right way to put away your lines. Basically if it works for you and you don't end up in a huge tangle - that's the right way to do it! :)

Hope this helps.


#10778 Which Rev? (1, 1.5, 2, or B)

Posted by awindofchange on 16 November 2007 - 10:47 AM

Wow, this is a little more difficult than the question implies. Your basically asking a detailed pros vs. cons about every Rev in the lineup except the speed and power ones. One could write a 100 page book on this....but we'll just try and keep it as basic as possible. You should be able to do a search on each of the kites you are interested in and get the info but I will try to summarize it up in on post for you.

Rev 1:
The Sedgwick is the same kite as the Rev 1 with a different panel layout and no mylar so I will just include it with this response. Some say the no-mylar sail flies a bit better but usually comes down to color choices and appearance. The Rev 1 is slow and graceful. Arguably the most precise kite in the Rev lineup. The Rev 1 is the largest of all the Revs (except the power 2-4 & 4-8) and also has the largest wind range in it's stock form. With changing out the leading edges you can increase the wind range but you may still be limited to the upper wind range unless you go with a vented version as well. The Rev 1 usually comes packaged from Rev with the SLE (super leading edge). Other leading edges can be ordered as replacements for the SLE if desired. The Rev 1 is available with SLE and Standard leading edges for both the standard and sedgwick models, SUL model(special order) & Vented models.
Cons....??? Well, I guess the slowness of the kite is the only con unless you are not a speed freak then there is no cons. Many pilots (including my wife) absolutely love the Rev 1 with its gracefulness and control and would take it over the other Rev's any day.

Rev 1.5 SLE:
At this time Revolution does not produce just a 1.5 so the only option on this model is the Rev 1.5 SLE. The 1.5 SLE is a great kite with a ton of versatility to it and is the best selling model (in our shop). The 1.5 SLE has multiple rods that can be changed in and out of the kite such as the SLE 3 & 4 wraps, standard rods in 2, 3, & 4 wrap and the new Race Rods. This allows the 1.5 SLE (and the vented version) to be able to be flown in nearly any winds from 1-2 mph all the way to a reported 40+ mph with just a simple change of the frame rods. Rod sets average around $60-$70 per set so getting other rods for your 1.5 SLE is very inexpensive and simple. Our shop does offer to exchange out the SLE rods to any other rod you want at no additional charge so if you do not want the SLE you can give us a call. The 1.5 SLE is available in SUL, Standard & Vented models.
Cons...Not quite as precise as the Rev 1 (A qualified pilot has the ability to match the precision of the Rev 1 with this model but the Rev 1 a little easier to do precise maneuvers) The precision issue is very minimal between the 1 and 1.5. The 1.5 SLE is a little twitchier and flies quicker than the Rev 1, especially with the SLE installed.

Rev II:
This kite is very quick and can be a blast to fly. It is not as quick as the speed series but still faster than the 1.5 SLE. It doesn't have near the pull that any of the other models have either so flying it in 15+ mph winds is both fun and easy to do. It is probably the lightest pulling kite in the entire Rev lineup (except the indoor but that is obvious). Because of it's small size it is quick and not as precise as the 1.5 SLE (pilot experience makes most of the difference here as well). It is a fun little bugger to fly. The Rev II is awesome fun to stack. The Rev II is available in standard, Vented and 3 stack configurations.
Cons...It is a limited production model, usually only made once a year so supply is very limited and it may be difficult to get a specific color without a special order. It is quick and twitchy.

B-Series:
The B-series is basically a 1.5 sail with a different panel layout. The sail materials are slightly different and combined with the unique panel layout the B-series flies very smoothly and has a great wind range. The B-series is a kite designed for a Rev pilot who wants the ultimate Revolution kite. The package comes with two complete frame sets:
Standard Version - 2 wrap and 3 wrap frames
Vented Version - 3 wrap and 4 wrap frames
The package also has pre-knotted handles to make adjustments to your flying style very quick and easy. It also comes with a weight kit to help with 3D flying such as axle's, flick-flack's and other advanced tricks. It also carries a logo from John B. himself on the sail. The kite is a great package that will help take your flying experience to the next level.
Cons...The B-series package is the most expensive of all the kites listed and it does not come with lines which must be purchased separately.

I want to point out that the above information is only my opinion and others may experience different results than what I have posted. This post is not to reflect badly on any of the kites listed above or to be taken that one kite is not a very good model. Revolution has done a wonderful job at producing kites that are totally fun for different flying styles and wind ranges (different strokes for different folks). None of the kites in the Rev lineup are really competing with each other as they are all different enough from the others to warrant their existence. It really comes down to personal preference as to which kite is better than the other. I do have all of the models above in my bag at all times cuz they're all awesome to fly!!! I haven't listed many cons on the kites cuz I just can't think of any....... They are all awesome kites. You should just buy them all now cuz you'll probably end up with them all anyways :)

Hope this helps.


#467 Seeking advice on how to stack Rev's...

Posted by awindofchange on 05 September 2006 - 04:50 PM

Good questions, I have been flying a couple stacked revs for a while now and will try to answer.  If anyone else has any information (even if it is contradicting) please join in!

Most Rev's can be stacked on 4.5' or 5.5' foot lines.  I have found that the larger rev's work a bit better on the longer stack lines and the smaller rev's work on 4.5' lines.  Shorter than 4.5' seem to cause turbulence between the kites and I dont recommend it.  My 8 stack of 1.5 SLE's are all 4.5' and it works great.

Pretty much all rev's can be stacked although I have never stacked the Power Blast 2-4's or the 4-8's, or the indoor.  For the Rev 1, EXP, and 1.5's, 7 stack lines are used.  One on each leading edge wing tip (2) one on each leading edge spar (2) one on the leading edge center (1) one on each lower wing tip (2).  All stack lines are exactly the same length.  Our shop does carry pre-made Revolution stacking kits but if you are ok with making your own lines then it is not hard to do.

To make your own stack lines just make a loop on each end of the line so the overall length is 4.5' (or whatever length you decide to use) and that they are all equal.  Larks head each loop onto the end cap of each attachment point just like the bridle is attached (wing tip to wing tip, leading edge to leading edge, etc...)

Normally you can stack 2-3 rev's together without any additional components.  If you decide to stack more than 3 then you may want to consider upgrading the frame(s) on the front kite to make sure it can withstand the additional stress placed on it from the stacked kites.  All kites hang off of the front kite(s).  In my 8 stack, the first 4 kites have custom heavy frames (8 wrap).  During flight when the winds are up you can still see the first kite bow a bit when it is under tension even with the heavy frame in it.  Again, if you are only stacking up to 2-3 additional revs the standard frame will probably be just fine.

Additional "tweaking" on the stack lines may be necessary once you get the stack into the air.  I have found that shortening the bottom lines on the last kite by 1/4" helps keep the stack in line better and reduces the "chasing" effect the last kite has on the rest of the stack.  For easy testing just larks head some small dowel's into the line and fly to see if it is better or worse.  The other "tweaking" can be done once the kites are all setup and staked to the ground.  Stand all the kites up and put minimal tension ln the rear kite at each stack line connection - make sure the entire stack in perfectly straight and in line with your handles.  With minimal tension at each point you should be able to see if any of your stack lines need to be adjusted.  The leading edge tips are hardest to do because of their ability to flex but all the other lines should pull equally tight as you tension them.  If any are loose or droop more than the others, adjust them as needed.  It is best to have someone else watch the stack as you fly - specifically watching each kite and noting if there are any unusual flight patterns with each kite as they fly across the window.  Someone with a good eye should be able to spot any stack lines that are out of adjustment because that kite will not be perfectly in line with the rest of the stack.

With most of the stacks I have set up for others I have had to adjust the brake lines on my handles.  Under normal settings the brakes are way to tight with the stack.  I am not really sure why this is but you may need to add an additional 2" onto the rear lines.  You may not realise this at first but if your stack has an incredible amount of power and spins are hard to correct then your brake lines are too tight.  Play with this adjustment until you find a setting that works good for you.

If you plan on stacking a mix of different rev's then you may also need to adjust each stack line set differently for each rev.  Custom attachment points may also need to be developed if the revs dont quite match up with each other.

I have also found it best to completely remove each bridle on the stacked rev - this helps keep line tangles to a minimum.  The stack lines can get a bit confusing when you have a bunch of revs stacked together - the bridles make it even moreso.  Your flying line may also need to be upgraded depending on the type of rev's you are stacking and how many.  If you are only stacking 1 or 2 kites then your original line "may" be ok.  I would recommend upgrading to at least 150# to be safe. If more rev's are to be stacked then 200# or 300# may be necessary.  My 8 stack has 300# X 4 line and has been fine.

Flyign the stack -
This is the most amazing thing, the stack will fly almost exactly like one kite, it will just feel ultra heavy depending on the amount of kites stacked.  If the stack is not tuned properly then you may end up with a lot of "chasing" in the stack so dive stops & reverse hovers will be very difficult to do.  Turning will also require some man-handling to get the stack to whip around but you should get the feel of it in 5 or so minutes of flying.  Reverse launching a larger stack can be difficult and some serious reverse on the handles with added backwards steps will be necessary to get the stack to lift off of the ground.  Once it does then flip it over quickly and the stack should "snap" into shape and feel solid again.  Another pilot in our group who is very experienced in flying stacks told me to "fly the back kite, not the front one" and it took me a while to figure out what he was talking about.  He was exactly right and if you teach yourself to watch the rear kite and fly that one as if it was hooked directly to your handles then the timing on your flying will be spot on and easier to do.  The rear kite for some reason turns first and the stack follows...strange but pretty neat once you figure it out.

Last hint - keep your leading edge bungee's tighter on the stack than normal flying.  For some reason the leading edge end caps seem to pop off a lot easier when stacked - tighter bungee's will help reduce this.

Sorry for the long post - hope it helps.