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Controlled Crash

Member Since 26 May 2013
Offline Last Active Feb 15 2014 12:52 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Old Kite

29 January 2014 - 05:49 PM

a leader on each side,.... YES. 


Ahh, this makes sense.


Would this be easier, or work better, on a bigger or smaller kite? I have several candidates for a conversion, but I don't think I'm going to do this to the Rev. 


Do you think It would work better to replace the entire bridal? I.E. to make the lower bridal attachments align vertically with the upper attachments, or do I want the tilt?

In Topic: Old Kite

07 January 2014 - 05:33 PM

......... You only need one leg to have a knot in it, if you fold the leader in half and then placed a knot in one leg, of course the other side would remain longer. The longer, un-knotted strand will be captured when you larks head the flying lines on, it's not free. The reason for one knot in one leg only is convenience of adjustment during the tuning phase.
Do I do this once for each side? Without removing the existing bridle from the top spreader, the existing bridle will limit how far back the nose can tilt, right?

............ Testing. The existing bridle is only connected to the bottom flying lines, rotating your quad grips will certainly change the pitch


The existing bridle would still be attached at the top spreader too. I would think that this would limit the distance the nose could move away from the pilot, as in, it could not tilt farther back than the bridle will allow it to tilt as it is right now. I think it would work better to disconnect the top bridal points.  Do both top lines attach at the same point? Or do I need two leaders, one for each side?

In Topic: Old Kite

03 January 2014 - 07:22 PM

You are placing a single overhand knot in one leg only.  When you larkshead to this pig-tail you will grab both strands, even though only one has a knot.


I don't understand why only one leg would have a knot. Why leave the other strand free? How much longer past the knot would the end of the other strand be?


At the top spreader location (you are not removing the existing dual line bridle at all) you will slip that folded/doubled bridle line thru the hole in the sail and wrap the spreader fitting such that nothing can move when you yank or spank, pull or jerk the line.  This become the top flying lines attachment point when you switch to flying the kite quad-line.  The attachment point is still the dual line bridle for the quad lines on the bottoms. 


Do I do this once for each side? Without removing the existing bridle from the top spreader, the existing bridle will limit how far back the nose can tilt, right?


You are just going to have to type slower so I can understand. My excuse? I did spend most of this summer building and flying SLK's, I just didn't anticipate this side effect. On a side note, I made a four cell tetrahedral kite about two months ago, but I haven't gotten to fly it.


Charles Stonestreet is an older gentlemen with typical age-physical symptoms.  He can't grip a quad handle anymore!  So he flies a THREE string method (It's still considered mutli-line).  He flies the kite on the normal two string bridle using a wooden handle (imagine a very shortened broomstick, rounded off on the ends and drilled thru at each corner for affixing the flying line leaders.  He wrist rotates this stick back and forth is his grasp.  THe braking action comes from that third line,.... tied to the spine (center fitting) this time, so that by changing the relationship distance between the handle and his waist he can add forward drive or take it away.  Oh, I almost forgot, "Stoney" flies one in each hand at the same time.  A great show if you haven't seen him in Freestyle (OIOU) !!!


  Yes I have seen him. I had no idea why he flew his kites like that. I figured he was just that kind of awesome. I don't think that it is as easy as he makes it look.


 If you order today you can get a 2nd one free (you just have to pay add'l shipping and handling!    < just kidding > )


When one can buy one pair of X-Ray vision glasses for five bucks and get the second pair free, people don't mind paying thirty-five dollar S&H.

In Topic: Old Kite

02 January 2014 - 07:30 PM

go to the top spreader attachment points and larkshead (or prussik knot) a leader using 100# high test bridle line, try a foot length in the beginning for each side.  Place an overhand knot into the double strand at the end or as close as possible.


I am not sure I am following you here. Where is this "double strand" and "end" of which ye speak? I would have to do something with the original bridle where it attaches at the upper spreader, right?



 This kite design will need some big wind, but it will fly quad when you'd never use it as a dualie!  Prism's micron is whole lot of hyper speed fun too.


I don't know if I would try this with the Rev, but have a couple of other kites that might be candidates for butchering modification. 

Would this work better on a bigger or smaller kite?


It seems to me (from looking at my kite and thinking about it for the past 20 minutes), that disconnecting the bridle from the top spar, then connecting two single bridle lines for the top two lines, then connecting the bottom lines to the existing bridle line, might work as a quad line kite. I am sure it is not quite that simple, as I am often wrong when guessing about things I know nothing about.

In Topic: Old Kite

02 January 2014 - 05:50 PM

I have a NOS skin that I would like to finish.

Do any of you have this kite and would you be willing to take some measurements for me?



Upper spreader- 15 13/16" (not in kite)

Lower spreaders- 49 15/16" (assembled, but not in kite)

Leading Edges-  50 7/16" (without wingtip) From bottom of leading edge, without wingtip, about 17 5/8" to lower spreader connector and about 40 7/8" to upper spreader connector

Spine- 25 3/8" (without wingtip) From bottom of spine (no tip) to Center T- 2 3/4"

Nose- 3 1/4" wide

Stand-offs- 10" (not assembled to lower spreaders)

The kite assembled:

Ground to top of nose- 34 3/4"

Wingtip to wingtip- 77 1/2"

Belly down, height of sail at stand-offs- 6 7/8"


Hope this helps.