Posted by makatakam
on 22 November 2015 - 11:05 AM
Vented in front, with the heavier frame in it, since that frame will be supporting the pull of two kites, although with a two-stack it is not absolutely necessary. Use the 90# lines because of the additional pull. The front kite will block some of the wind from reaching the back sail, so the vented sail will allow more wind to reach the back one, and you will want the top of the back sail tilted back about 1/2"-ish more than the front sail. You can leave the bridle of the back kite on it, but it looks better if removed, and will eliminate the wear caused by dragging it around.
When you are flying a stack, you fly the back kite and the one(s) in front of it are only "along for the ride", so to speak, although they also add to the lift and pull of the entire assembly. You want to adjust the stack lines so that the entire stack flies as a unit and the trailing kites don't lag behind. If they lag a lot they will cause a great deal of wobble and make control more difficult.
The well-adjusted stack will actually fly in slightly lower wind than either of the kites individually. Same amount of drag from the lines and more sail area, so the entire assembly is proportionally lighter. Experienced pilots can fly a full-vent in 4-6 mph wind, and a standard sail in 1-2 mph. It should fly best in 5-8 mph for you. Above that the pull starts to make it more work than fun.
Once you get into stacks of four or more kites, the framing and adjustments become more critical and other structural support issues come into play. In a progressive stack (different sizes of sails) the smaller sails usually go in front, but with some work can be made to fly any which way you prefer. Remember, it's not rocket science, just a bit of common sense.
Fly, smile, don't forget to breathe.
Edit -- stacking lines are usually made from bridle line of adequate strength for the number of kites they must support. For a two- or three-stack standard Rev bridle is fine.
Just keep an eye on how much bow there is in the leading edge. If it starts approaching a 90-degree arc, switch to the 4-wrap. That's for the upper wind range. 25 mph-ish with 4-wraps.
Lower wind range will depend largely on your skill level. The lowest wind with a full-vent that I would attempt is about 6-8 mph. Your mileage WILL vary. The more brake you can fly with will get you airborne in lower winds. Sounds wrong, but it is true. The more square the sail is to the wind, the more pressure the wind can put on, the more lift is achieved.
Don't over-think what you're doing. Instead, feel what the kite wants to do. Your flying will benefit more from working with the available wind, than fighting it.
Posted by makatakam
on 23 September 2015 - 06:09 AM
Nick, that's a drawing created in a 3D program, Google Sketchup. I did not make any prototypes of that design, but did make (at my local machine shop) some prototypes of the one shown here above it. I will post some photos of the actual cap in use as soon as possible. Flew them on sand at the IKE retreat this past weekend for two days on sand. Flew another kite with standard caps as comparison. They are awesome. Not a grain anywhere.
The Dan Jones video has winds gusting to about 20mph. That's why it looks like the kites are overhead most of the time, because they are. In the Lagoon video the wind is probably no more than 4mph. I have only flown my 2-4 only in wind less than 8mph. Anything more than 5mph, the kite starts picking me up off the ground. I weigh about 145 pounds, but I know how to fly a quad well. At 8mph it's a real workout for me.
The winds here, some days good, some none at all. Usually before a storm I get good wind. So I would be happy to get a kite that I could fly most of the time, with decent pull, due to the wind condition.
Willing to sacrifice not having the blast or the 2-4.
I hope that sums up what I want, Stroke Survivor.
Google "blast kite" and click on videos. The one with Barresi flying is low-wind. Look for Dan flying a two-stack in Milwaukee to see how much power they can generate. I saw him do that in person -- brutal. Kept complaining about sore shoulders the rest of the day for some reason.
Hello, MNwild, and welcome to the forum. There are a couple of flyers in MN, one shows on the member map tab at the top of this page as being in St. Francis, just north of Minn/sPaul. There's another flyer somewhere around, I think the Brainerd area. Join the KiteLife forum and look at the member map there too. You can try to PM these guys. Also, Join the IKE (Illinois Kite Enthusiasts) Forum, or contact the Wisconsin Kiters Club which is a bit closer to you. The IKE forum is completely free, and you'll be talking to lots of people from the Midwest who are familiar with typical crumby inland wind.
As far as choice of kite -- Would be nice to meet up with folks on the field so you can test fly before you buy, but if you can't I would recommend getting a full-sail (no vents) to begin with, specifically the SLE model (super leading edge) package with lines and handles. It is relatively inexpensive and readily available through most kite shops. This is what I started with; it's a well-built kite, as all Revolution Kites are, and will provide many years of smiles. Six years and counting, I still fly my original quite often. It's a good beater and shows its age like a well-earned badge, and has many years of service left before I intend to retire it.
You can contact Scott at Gift of Wings in Milwaukee, WI. He probably has two or three on hand. I believe that's the closest shop to you, but Google and see if any are closer. Other option is to take a look on e-Bay for new or used ones. Don't buy imitations, they will cause you grief. If you got to have it soon and want new, buy a Ready To Fly package, that will include lines and handles. Find a large screwdriver to use as a stake to hold it down when you're not actively flying, and you're all set. Watch these beginner tutorial videos on the KiteLife site: Set-up, Line Management, Launch, and Basic Control.
Thanks, Paul. Your reply has been very informative and helpful. I think I'll try flying it and then double-loop the restrictors at the uprights; I guess if they are supposed to restrict movement of the center attachment point then let's see if more restriction is better. Right now there's close to an inch of slack. Just doesn't look right to me, but then, what do I know?
I won't let my Zen get away from me. Even stock out of the box, I love it.