Not to , but flying with others is the fastest way to learn. An experienced flyer can watch you and give you an ah-ha moment that will save hours of time.
Make sure your lines are equalized. I've helped multiple new fliers discover one line is significantly longer than all others.
Vertical spars go on the back (without the bridle and logo). You probably know this, but it happens.
Try flying with more brake. Have the top lines be 2-4" longer than the bottoms. This makers it harder to launch, but eliminates much of the twitching. If you don't have knots in your leader, See Mike Kory's post below.
Once you have all the knots in the leaders, you can experiment with different amounts of brake to see what feels comfortable. Give it 10-15 minutes on a setting to get used to it before changing for the best comparisons.
When you put more brake on, you will need to give a decent pull and possibly a strong step back to launch.
Just to be clear:
It doesn't matter how long your bottom leaders are. It doesn't matter how long your top leaders are.
What matters, is the difference in length between the top and bottom leaders.
Choose the knots you mostly fly on.
1. Measure the distance from the handle to the knot on the top leader.
2. Measure the distance from the handle to the knot on bottom leader.
Subtract: #1 - #2.
That's how much brake you're using.
I found this diagram I had posted a few years back on the IKE forum. It's another way to measure your brake.
Another helpful hint. If you have the standard Rev handles, without knotted leaders, you can re-do them. Remove the top leader and untie it so that you have a long line instead of a looped line. You can tie knots and attach the leader without it being looped & larks-headed. Another old diagram from IKE:
We've being using leaders like that on 180GO! for years without a problem. Here's our leaders: (sorry for the over-sized photo, it's what was already online)
I usually fly on the last knot or second to last knot on the top leader, and the last knot on the bottom leader.
Depending on the flyer, I'll use the other knots when teaching a newbie or converting them from the "no-brake" to "brake" way of flying.
Fly in decent winds when you are first learning. Very low winds or gusty, swirling winds are like learning to drive on a stick-shift with a bad clutch.
Find a large field to reduce turbulence from surrounding buildings or trees. I started on a small field and had real problems down low. I went to a much larger field and the winds were much smoother.
Try 120' lines if you have been using 75'. The extra length gives you a small amount of additional time to think and the extra length may allow you to get above the turbulence to cleaner winds.
Do whatever you can to kick the dual-line pushing and pulling habit. Try locking your elbows to sides and fly only with your hands.
Try and keep your hands down low. Easier said than done.
Most of my early mistakes were from over control. The Rev needs small inputs and then you can return to neutral. Try simple up, down, hover midway and rocking left and right to get a sense of it.
If you can have someone shoot a video of you flying possibly from behind you to show body and kites and post, I'm sure there are plenty of flyers that will give you feedback.
To answer your original question: After three to four sessions in decent winds on a good field, I was getting comfortable and starting to make regular progress.
Lastly: Start thinking what color your vented will be. Once you get a vented, you are set for almost any wind condition.
This has been a lengthy post and may include plenty of things you already know. Hopefully some of this will be useful. YMMV.
- Lavarr likes this