To make life a little easier, I am using 3/4" wide Scotch tape around the joints making the 10 travel spars into 3 with no ferrules on the end and 2 with a ferrule on one end. I did this on our first day of our stay in Berck, and removed the tape before moving on. Also, we removed the covers from two kites and used them keep two sets of one type of spar each.
Seems lots easier than dealing with 10 little pieces, or in our case, 40 little pieces.
This is working well for us
Posted by Jim Foster
on 25 February 2015 - 06:45 PM
80 feet is actually mid-longish....120 feet and up is long; I have flown on 250 feet, however, at that length you give the kite input and three seconds later it reacts. It's like flying slow-motion. 120 feet is the accepted team standard around the world, so it would be good to have a set if you care to fly with others. You can fly with others on 80-foot lines too. 30-foot lines would be difficult, at least, and give you a faster kite moving very quickly in a very small window. 80-footers are not bad to learn on. I did it, so can you. It helps you stop making mistakes faster, and when you get on the 120's you'll feel like you've got all day to make a decision. Don't try to learn on 30's, you'll just break the kite.
A few years ago at Kite Party, there were 18 of us flying together on 75' lines. Much of the time it was a traffic jam, but we had loads of fun.
Posted by Jim Foster
on 04 October 2014 - 02:29 PM
The longer handles require less input to the kite. They allow the kite to be be controlled at greater angles to the wind.
Some may take issue with my answer to the second part of your question.
The bend angle, geometrically, makes no difference at all. Any difference in the bend angle can be compensated for by the length of the pig tails at each end of the handle. Think about it. If the handle was straight, you would want short pigtails on the top, and very long pigtails on the bottom. If the handle had a 90 degree bend in the middle, below the grip, you would want very long pigtails on the top and very short pigtails on the bottom.
The distance between the top and bottom pigtails is what controls the amount of input required to control the kite.
I had Mr. Hunt for geometry.
We fly with fairly long pigtails on both ends of the handle, allowing nearly infinite adjustment of the angle of the grip portion of the handle. In very high winds, we keep the grip as close as possible to a neutral position to ease strain on our wrists.
All week, at least.
A week early if there will be opportunities to fly with other early arrivers.
You: Aug 1? Wow.
Actually, July 31. Several Rev fliers are due to arrive in Long Beach the first week of August or thereabout. At least six. Hey, it's a long way to go for only a week. Besides that, it's a nice place to be. A month affords plenty of time to fly even if there are a few days of poor weather.
Posted by Jim Foster
on 31 January 2014 - 10:01 AM
I would strongly suggest 100 or 120 for two reasons.
1. Line sets last a long time, especially if you are flying alone. It should be a long time before you will need to replace your 80s.
2. When you do start flying with others, you will need 120s or 100s. We use both as most people we fly with carry both. If only of the two, 120s would be the best choice. We use 100s when there are only up to four or maybe six, or when wind or space are low. Flying in larger groups or in large spaces 120s provide more sky in which to play.
I just wanted to say thanks to Jim, Lynn, & Bob for inviting me for a team fly with them when I was vacationing in long beach the first part of august. I had a blast and got some well needed practice in. See you all in a week for the grid, and hopefully some more team flying. Thank again, Eric the rookie
Eric, it was a pleasure to meet and fly with you. See you next week.
All kites face right. Outside kites, that's rows and columns1 and 10 move counter clockwise, rows and columns 2 and 9 move clockwise, rows and columns 3 and 8 counter clockwise etc. alternating through the grid, one space. GO. One more space, GO. Back one space, GO. One more space, GO.
Might just work. Could go three, four might be one too many for the kites in the center of the grid. I never twister more than three positions as the forth may cause a "lock" which could really cause problems in this situation.
I know you were just kidding about me calling a twister with 100 kites, but it got me thinking, which could be good or bad. That lead to the 100 kite "Super Blender" which I outlined above. Not hard or complicated, but certain to be a "crowd pleaser".
I would think that many of the fliers in this grid would have flown in the 64 grid. We, unfortunately, have a much harder time getting large numbers together on this side of the pond. As for me, except for Kite Party, WSIKF and a few festivals, I am thrilled when I can get eight.
Lynn and I are ready for, hopefully, the same fun filled week as we had leading up the 64. Flying in groups and helping to raise both the level of flying and the level of confidence of newer fliers.
We hate to wish our lives away, but tomorrow would be none to soon. We plan to be in Long Beach the entire month of August.
This has happened to us many times. I believe that, over time, with the flexing of the leading edge spars during flight, the glue used in production finds it's way loose. When I find that condition I remove the ferrule, carefully scrape off the old glue and use super glue to re-install the ferrule. I wrap masking tape around the ferrule at the point where you want the ferrule to stop sliding into the spar, as once you apply the glue to the ferrule and start sliding it into the spar, it should be done quickly. The tape provides a "stop" so that the glue does not set up before the ferrule is "home", or you don't slide the ferrule too far in and the glue set before you can pull back out to the proper place. Just a tip.
Lynn and I do a lot of flying. When I am washing our kites, or otherwise " messing" with them, I always pull the center spar out and do my best to try to twist the ferrules out of the center spar, thus avoiding the chance of pushing a ferrule all the way into the spar during assembly, which is a major pain, or pushing it in all but a half inch or so, allowing assembly, but after a short time it will splinter the end of the outer spar. The latter happened to one of our team members just yesterday.