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Kitelife

Member Since 31 Dec 1969
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 03:22 PM
*****

#63015 Color scheme ideas

Posted by Kitelife on 25 December 2009 - 10:43 AM

wb = welcome back ;)


#63014 How to set up a routine

Posted by Kitelife on 25 December 2009 - 10:42 AM

In the scenario you mentioned for Lincoln City, it's a demo situation, WAY different than a competition.

Honestly, fly clean, move your kite to the music, and most all, FEEL it, enjoy it, that's what the audience will respond to most, not the complexity or professionalism of your performance... Take my word on this, 20 years of competition and demonstration experience speaking here.

If you want to "take it to task" and prepare a routine, I recommend you start browsing kite ballet videos... The older, the better.

Older routines are simpler, more "feel", whereas more recent routines are more likely to be focusing on WOW and tricks, much of which the audience doesn't understand.

A crowd at Lincoln City, they want to see people enjoying themselves, groovin'... Take stock of the routines you've seen there and the audiences response to each one, I'm sure you'll agree... Non-complex routines, but highly enjoyable might include Penny, Al Washington, Carl Bragiel, etc... Some of what they choose to do might be difficult, but it's all understandable to the uninitiated. :)

When someone goes too trick heavy on their stuff, unless they're one of the best pilots around, you can pretty much assume the audience will be lost, sometimes even if they are the best.

For some fodder, here are a couple of articles...

http://kitelife.com/...let/content.php
http://kitelife.com/...y62/content.php

Realize of course, some of the articles above are tailored for competition.

When all else fails, consider the words of my good friend Rob (Bob) Hanson...

http://kitelife.com/...l64/content.php

Enjoy yourself, fly clean, and the crowd will respond. ;)


#62957 New forum is open for business!

Posted by Kitelife on 24 December 2009 - 01:53 PM

Okay, just testing a quick fix...

zen.JPG

This image is 3072 × 2304, let's try it.

Burka, this work for you too?

I better start getting some + reputation for all this hustling... You can't say I don't listen. ;)


#62885 New forum is open for business!

Posted by Kitelife on 23 December 2009 - 11:33 AM

Two ways...

1. As it is now, right from the index, log in box drops down for one-page login.
2. Remove it, click on "sign in", takes you to a second page for logging in.

Reason I ask, two people have reported that they can't click their cursor into the fields, and have to use the tab key to get there.

Those who have similar issues and don't know about the tab key might not be able to log in.

Thoughts?

Reminder as well, please start using the Posted Image on all posts that give you useful knowledge or are reporting something that makes your life here easier.


#62829 New forum is open for business!

Posted by Kitelife on 22 December 2009 - 03:02 PM

Also, I'd love folks to get into the habit of pressing Posted Image on helpful, useful, informative posts whenever appropriate.

I'm leaving Posted Image available for now, but...

1. It should only be used for derisive, profane or destructive posts.
2. It will be removed in short order if misused.

Any post with more than 5 positive marks should become highlighted somehow, to make it easier to spot.


#61508 Got my Zen!

Posted by Kitelife on 24 November 2009 - 01:45 PM

I know the Zen has just been released, but I wanted to start a dedicated thread for people to post in with their photos and experiences. :)

Can't wait to hear from y'all!


#60801 Line Managment and care

Posted by Kitelife on 03 November 2009 - 05:15 PM

Whether you wind with the figure-8 or straight method, if you've locked down both ends and they're not rotating, then you bring 'em together and pull 'em apart (by winding/unwinding), any apparent (individual line) twists come out under tension.

The only way a single line can twist (regardless of what you do in the middle - i.e. winding style) is if you allow one extreme end to rotate, adding an individual line twist per rotation.

Simple mathematics.

Whatever works for you, but that little pearl supersedes everything else. ;)

*grumble*urban*grumble*legends*

Try both methods with new sets of lines, side by side... Wind/unwind 5 times each, then walk down one line with your fingernail to push any twists down to the end (should do this anyway from time to time)... Now, which winding method generates more line spin (untwisting) at the end?


#57764 Line winding with minimal twists/tangles, iQuad style...

Posted by Kitelife on 01 September 2009 - 12:10 PM

There has been a lot of discussion regarding line winding methods, most particularly minimizing the twists or tangles in your lines as you set up your kite each time.

I've tried everything over the years... Halo spools on a drill (fast wind), two winders, one winder, winding on the handles, tying pairs together, tying all four together, straight wind, figure eight wind... In my experience, nothing I've tried thus far compares with the method we've used religiously on iQuad over the past 3 years... We don't even think about our lines anymore, except which weight or length to use. <grin>

Three minutes to set up, three minutes to tear down... No more 20-30 minute untangling sessions. ;)

==

Here's the formula for a reliable one-winder affair, starting with your kite leading edge down, staked at the top of the handles (i.e. secure on the ground) and no more than a 1/2 twist in the lines:

1. At the kite end, disconnect the left lines, then larks head your top line onto the bottom line's sleeving and slide it down to the knot... This should leave the bottom line effectively pulled out further than the top line (I'll explain this later).

2. Repeat the same technique with the right side, then put both sets in one hand so you have the two bottom loops together like two lines, with both top lines attached at the knot(s) on the bottom line sleeving.

3. Although all four lines are in one hand now, you should only be holding the bottom loops in your fingers as you place those two onto the notch in your winder.

3. Wind straight or figure eight, doesn't make a single bit of difference in twisting... It only effects your winding motion, and how the line sits on the winder... I very much prefer a straight wind as it tends to be neater, and I can fit more line into less space on the winder.

** NOTE: You've now attached your bottom loops to the winder, without twisting them prior... As you wind, the winder is NOT rotating or twisting in any way, it's only going to move up and down, in and out, as you make your way to the handles... Simply, there are no twists thus far in the process, it's literally impossible because nothing rotates. (part 2 in the next section)

4. As you finish winding and are approaching the handles, wind down to ground so as not to lift the handles which might allow them to spin (twist)... As you pick up the handles, they should fairly well fold right over the winder so you can strap the whole thing down (securely).

** NOTE: Again I'll point out that the loops (kite end) haven't rotated, and the handles haven't rotated either, not significantly anyway... Ergo, no excessive twists, literally impossible because you've in theory brought the four points at either end together, spooling the line cleanly in-between... You might end up with a twist or two as you inadvertently allow one pair (R or L) to twist somewhere, go through each other once, or perhaps at the handle end.

** NOTE 2: The reason the handles are probably going to fold over the winder so nicely is the fact that we first staggered the top and bottom lines at the kite end before winding... We pulled the bottom lines out further (by 4"-6") which conversely pulled the bottom of the handles forward at the other end, setting the handles up for a neat fold over at the end. ;)

** NOTE 3: I typically leave my handles on, but if you must remove yours, be sure to reverse the method you used at the kite end... Instead, you'll be larks heading the BOTTOM lines onto the top lines, so the tops are extending further out, opposite of the other end, taking out most of the slack (uneven lengths) in the lines.

** NOTE 4: Using this method correctly, it should be impossible for a twist or tangle to form that would warrant disconnecting one line and worming it out, shouldn't EVER be necessary, because again, we've worked with fixed pairs and non-rotation at either end, you should be able to get any twist out simply by rotating the handles together, individually, or putting one through the other every now and then... Disconnecting a line generally causes more trouble than it solves, unless you're working with a real pile of spaghetti. :)

==

Setting up:

1. Stick a stake in the ground.

2. Unstrap your winder, place the TOP of your handles onto the stake (like locking the kite in forward) and walk downwind with the winder in a position that allows it to rock freely (but secure in your hand)... Everything should pop-pop-pop-pop right off, all the way to the end.

3. Take the loops off your winder and put one in each hand, pulling some tension into the lines and spreading your arms to centralize the (apparent) twists a little, but don't try too hard... Working with one side first, separate one pair (top and bottom R or L), then attach to the kite, repeat with the other side.

** NOTE: DO NOT muck with what you think are twists yet, just hook up the kite, place it leading edge down on the ground and walk back to the handles.

4. Picking up your handles carefully so as not to accidentally launch, then waggle one brake line (watching for one side of the kite to wiggle) in order to identify your R/L handles and arrange them accordingly.

5. Now, using the handles, draw tension into all four lines with a conscious mind on your control of the kite... 90%-95% of what appeared to be twists should cancel each other out, leaving 1-3 twists, shouldn't be any more than this if you've done everything right.

==

I generally teach this one in person, but figured it was time to break it down thoroughly for those who rely on forum information between events. ;)

Post back here, share your successes or failures with this method, I'll be happy to clarify if prompted.

==

UPDATE - Video tutorial now available on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuw3vBD50hs


#46738 Obliviots

Posted by Kitelife on 07 April 2009 - 09:51 AM

End of the day, we have to be more responsible than they are... We know more than they do.

It may be sad, but it's to be expected that people will be unaware (much of the world).

I watch my kites and lines more in trouble areas, try to pick my spot for parking kites with some forethought, and I make sure my flight paths illustrate what is going on in that area... Nothing like thumping into the ground 50 feet away from someone who is approaching my flight area, they don't tend to come too close after that.


#24770 Maintaining inverted hover help

Posted by Kitelife on 11 July 2008 - 10:18 AM

I often suggest leading edge down on the ground... Lift one wing, set it down... Lift the other, set it down... Build up a rhythm, to develop your feel on the inverted controls.

Eventually, apply those principles (with small inputs) in the air.


#21618 EXP or B Series

Posted by Kitelife on 09 June 2008 - 04:03 PM

$327 is a darned good price too, you got a great deal on the lines.

Congrats Darin. :)


#17983 Sail pressure and movement...

Posted by Kitelife on 22 April 2008 - 09:49 AM

More hand movement to pick apart... :)

http://uk.youtube.co...h?v=bYuHmgyE2nw


#704 How to make a Bridle Board

Posted by Kitelife on 17 October 2006 - 08:21 AM

Or, if you're too lazy to figure all that out... You can order bridles direct from Rev, or your local kite shop. ;)