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lines for Rev II

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#1 rejamer

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 09:50 AM

I have an older Revolution II that I am about to fly after years of sitting in garage. I need help with connecting the lines. One set has black cord on end (and longer) and one is whitish. Which is top set and which is lower?


#2 stroke survivor

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 10:24 AM

Darn - can't help you for sure! If things are consistent with today's make-up, then black is for the bottom! I'd call Revolution for making sure I have it right though! Ask for Ben or Lolly, they'd know for sure!


If you plan on getting and using some other newer products, I'd invest in a new style bridle. That way you could use any of the newer "equal" made line sets with it! Otherwise that one line set is for that kite only!!

wayne from portland
You have 2 choices - live on or die!! I ain't the dying type!!!  Also known as "portland flyer" on some forums!




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#3 RevWizard


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Posted 03 August 2014 - 12:35 PM

It appears you might have the older REV I lines with an older REV II.

The "production" REV II has always used all lines of identical length.

It is always possible that there was a pre-production REV II that might have been different.


Stretch out the lines and see that they are the same length.

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#4 stroke survivor

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 08:04 PM

Could you mean that the sleeving (black cord) is longer? Like RevWizard said, stretch out the lines and check for length and evenness!

wayne from portland
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#5 hyzakite


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Posted 04 August 2014 - 08:42 AM

I'm thinking there might be short handles involved with no leaders, just clips, if that's the case put the longer (black sleeved) on the top and give it a try. You don't have much to lose, just the time it takes to give it a try.

#6 REVflyer


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Posted 05 August 2014 - 02:53 AM

Solution is simple, buy some bridle line, ("100# hi-test" ~ you can acquire it by the foot), or a whole spool (you'l use it!,... or be able to sell it off).


Use it to make new leaders first.

You should double the bridle line and lark-head that folded middle onto each of the handle attachment points.  Keep the two "legs" separate, centered and equal lengths.  You will add knots (single overhand) in one leg only, but capturing both legs together when affixing the flying lines.  


The clips are just another dang tangle point, they shall be removed entirely.

 Instead affix the lines with a larks-head (and pig-tail on the bridle, we will ADD one if necessary)


The top leaders will extend the length of your handles (almost!) reaching the bottom attachment points and hold just a single knot at the end to make this reach.  All flying line adjustments & tuning will be done on the bottom leaders only.  Start with the bottom leaders HALF of the top's length, and know that eventually you'll probably wind up as a 1/3 or 1/4 of that overall length, when final tuning is done.  Add some knots, like a 1/4 inch apart and add the knots in only one of the two bridle line "legs".


Drop all four flying line attachment points for the bridle onto a well placed stake (or fence post with carbiner clip)  insure there are no tangles, nesting or twists in the lines.  Take the handle in your left hand and place electrical tape in color above the foam, just enough wraps to visually determine which hand gets the color.  Now pull all four lines tight, trying to keep the handles perfectly aligned, the longer line(s) will droop and show itself/themselves.  You need to add knots into the loose/ longer strand on the leader until the lines are uniformly tight.  Really focus on making this alignment perfect.  Switch the positioning of the flying lines between top and bottom, left & right if you're "way off" to start.  This is giving your sports car a front end alignment so it doesn't pull towards on side of the road, even as you intent to drive straight.


Okay, all the lines are even or adjusted and the handles align PERFECTLY.  Now affix the bridle, with the handle colored tape in your left hand as the kite is inverted on the ground.  To tune the kite it must BACK-UP inverted, but first switch that colored tape handle to your right hand.

(you adjust lengths and then tune with the handles in opposite hands).  Keep shorting the lengths of the bottom flying lines by bringing it closer and closer to your handle, that is adding "Down".  If that quad will not back-up then you don''t have it tuned properly, you're missing out on all the cool tricks and decreasing the wind window size as well as losing the low end of the wind range.  Everything is done by affecting the bottoms and the relationship between the two handles.


Your first mission is to master the "cartwheel" so you can gracefully roll the kite over from an inverted position in the ground.  Not dragging it, slow graceful roll-over balancing on the tip.  You are trying to feel the kite's impact on the wind.  Look down the string, towards the kite and pick-up each handle high overhead one at a time, with slack in the lines so it will not take off.  The hand that is on top is the hand that will make all movements.  In big wind, you pull all four line tight, and push that one thumb at the kite.  In low wind you must also "sweep" that hand, (still with the thumb pushed forward) down, down , down towards your knee/hip in a smooth motion.  NOTE:  At the halfway point (the kite is now standing on one wing tip, balanced) you must "return" that moving hand back to neutral (match it up to the handle that never moved)


Next, you want to try to back up the kite inverted, instead of rolling it over.  This time really concentrate on a loose grip and TINY thumb movements.  Push both thumbs at the kite (slightly!) as you slowly walk backwards.  Imagine you can only fly it to shoulder height, then s-l-o-w-l-y back to mother earth.


Eventually you will want to shoot to the top of the window in forward flight, bored with all this inverted crap.  From sitting on the tips leading edge up.  Ok "punch" both arms forward, fully extended, carefully walk backwards until all four lines are tight, (but not so far you pull the kite over entirely so it's fallen onto the bridle).  Loosen your posture, arms and hands until the handles almost fall from your grip and rotate your thumbs to point towards your nose "thumbs up".  From a balanced position, take one leg and step slightly backwards and to the side, remaining balanced. "step back".


on "GO" you will pull the handles towards your armpits, as you push off that bent front knee, then taking several steps backwards , all in unison, . . . .  . . . .. then after flight is accomplished you simply lower your hands back down towards your waist.  (you can tell how long folks have been flying their revs by where they routinely hold their handles)


To make the kite fly in a straight line you align the fat parts of your thumbs and the handles.  To slide the kite you push one handle forward as you pull the other one back (like flying a dualie), you are changing the relationship between the two handles.


There are great practice sessions here on this site, "Learn to fly" on the main page, column left.


You can pull the spectra core from the bridle line and use it to make tighter sleeving, or you can add a stopper knot and dump the sleeving entirely.


The best advise I can give is to go find some other quad-heads and make some new friends, they'd love to assist and share with you.

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