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#1 JKapsten

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 02:03 PM

I was going through some of my old handles and notice that the older ons have a slightly fatter foam. I kind of prefer the fat foam but like my newer handles. Any ideas for fattening up the grips?

Jesse
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#2 REVflyer

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 03:40 AM

Baressi prefers the fat grips and I prefer the thin ones, . . . . you can get 'em anyway you want Jesse, if your "order" thru a Rev retailer or the factory. They'll even do a custom set-up, if you're willing to order a bunch of sets!

I like less curvature built into the handle materials and most of it located at the top with a gradual straightening, whereas the French guys "Team Crazy Drivers" have ALL of the curve on the bottom portion and top part of the handle is laser straight. Many fliers including my buddy Dave Ashworth prefers two bends with a straight portion (where he actually grips) inbetween. His wooden handles have the leader line running all the way thru with a friction fitting (cord lock) built in, so they are infinitely adjustable with no snagging knots. The tubed handle part is a pultrude carbon tube so they are light.

Mike Van Meers made some excellent wooden handles with pistol-fitted finger grips, properly proportioned for each hand (mirrored!). These woodies are remarkably comfortable and you can rock/pivot the handles on different finger positions all day long so your hands don't get tired. I've desired a set of my own for a dozen years, sorry no pictures but they are killer!

Gotta' little tiny stubby handle set for indoors, so light in weight that the kite can carry them away! (if released during a leading edge down, field recovery-type of glide). They have two bends, but also two lower attachment points, if you'll look carefully. I haven't figured out how those extra hinge points come into play YET. I'm assuming you attach a secondary loop to a pinky finger, so you can wildly changed your forward or reverse drive tuning on command by pulling between the two bottom attachment points?

You could fatten 'em up your existing set with some cork tape, or bike wrap tape for cycling handles over your current foam. If you seriously want to change the foam, you'll need to cut the old ones away, clean the handle material and reapply new fishing pole grips (I'd use two part 5-minute epoxy and really slather it on too!) After slipping your new grips into position (set a couple of wraps of electrical tape made of vinyl as a stopper!) you can clean up all the excess epoxy before it completely hardens. If you use too little epoxy, (trying to be neat, are you?), they'll come undone eventually, probably only on one side first though, so it's really annoying.

Do you know Glenn Haynes personally? Try to get in contact with him about some truly fantastic custom fishing pole grips. Check out my 17 inch (gap between the two attachment points) titanium tubed long throws! They are incredibly light and strong, even being run over by park ranger automobiles at the monument grounds. The Ti handles have since being photographed been converted to no-snags too, using the nail/larkshead method. They are best used during a dead calm with multiple opportunities for flailing thrown in!

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#3 AldenMiler

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 04:16 AM

Paul, that middle picture is all you! "Mr. Showtime"!


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#4 --Pete

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 05:14 AM

To make epoxy neatness easier, try putting masking tape on the parts of the handles where you don't want it. Then when everything sets up, remove the masking tape. Nice clean handles.
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#5 REVflyer

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 07:01 AM

Paul, that middle picture is all you! "Mr. Showtime"!


-Alden



actually Dave's current indoor kite design on this model encourages these types of activities Alden. You can throw the kite away from you and it refuses to go down to the floor all by itself! Absolutely the finest flying indoor kite I've ever touched, wheelchair bound fliers will find it completely worthy of their efforts. It flies just like your outdoor quads do, incorporating both magic sticks and a very longish bridle. The down spars are point 125 carbon tubes (2 on each side) with a P-90 leading edge. The sail has about five inches worth of curvature built into the leading edge. The long bridle stops the frame from collapsing during aggressive input commands, since it's so very light and flexible. The two sail halves are connected to each other so that a pronounced left and right side are nuetralized.

The factory should carry this model, it's much easier for a first timer to master (than their regular indoor 1.5)

#6 AldenMiler

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 09:30 AM

actually Dave's current indoor kite design on this model encourages these types of activities Alden. You can throw the kite away from you and it refuses to go down to the floor all by itself! Absolutely the finest flying indoor kite I've ever touched, wheelchair bound fliers will find it completely worthy of their efforts. It flies just like your outdoor quads do, incorporating both magic sticks and a very longish bridle. The down spars are point 125 carbon tubes (2 on each side) with a P-90 leading edge. The sail has about five inches worth of curvature built into the leading edge. The long bridle stops the frame from collapsing during aggressive input commands, since it's so very light and flexible. The two sail halves are connected to each other so that a pronounced left and right side are nuetralized.

The factory should carry this model, it's much easier for a first timer to master (than their regular indoor 1.5)



I see, so the instructions would read "place handle in mouth, fly kite inverted, accept applause from crowd"... Posted Image

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#7 REVflyer

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 11:19 AM

nope, that part is just some idiot seeking attention alden, the rest of it doesn't even need instructions!

I could drop Dave's handles and watch the kite float away (carrying them underneath!) then decide if I wanted to walk down and catch the kite or pick-up the handles again and keep on flying. Plenty of time, even enough time to be indecisive, HA!

Back on topic,...
Quad handles are like golf putters, you keep buying 'em until you latch onto that one set that fits you perfectly.

#8 JKapsten

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 08:18 AM

Baressi prefers the fat grips and I prefer the thin ones, . . . . you can get 'em anyway you want Jesse, if your "order" thru a Rev retailer or the factory. They'll even do a custom set-up, if you're willing to order a bunch of sets!

I like less curvature built into the handle materials and most of it located at the top with a gradual straightening, whereas the French guys "Team Crazy Drivers" have ALL of the curve on the bottom portion and top part of the handle is laser straight. Many fliers including my buddy Dave Ashworth prefers two bends with a straight portion (where he actually grips) inbetween. His wooden handles have the leader line running all the way thru with a friction fitting (cord lock) built in, so they are infinitely adjustable with no snagging knots. The tubed handle part is a pultrude carbon tube so they are light.

Mike Van Meers made some excellent wooden handles with pistol-fitted finger grips, properly proportioned for each hand (mirrored!). These woodies are remarkably comfortable and you can rock/pivot the handles on different finger positions all day long so your hands don't get tired. I've desired a set of my own for a dozen years, sorry no pictures but they are killer!

Gotta' little tiny stubby handle set for indoors, so light in weight that the kite can carry them away! (if released during a leading edge down, field recovery-type of glide). They have two bends, but also two lower attachment points, if you'll look carefully. I haven't figured out how those extra hinge points come into play YET. I'm assuming you attach a secondary loop to a pinky finger, so you can wildly changed your forward or reverse drive tuning on command by pulling between the two bottom attachment points?

You could fatten 'em up your existing set with some cork tape, or bike wrap tape for cycling handles over your current foam. If you seriously want to change the foam, you'll need to cut the old ones away, clean the handle material and reapply new fishing pole grips (I'd use two part 5-minute epoxy and really slather it on too!) After slipping your new grips into position (set a couple of wraps of electrical tape made of vinyl as a stopper!) you can clean up all the excess epoxy before it completely hardens. If you use too little epoxy, (trying to be neat, are you?), they'll come undone eventually, probably only on one side first though, so it's really annoying.

Do you know Glenn Haynes personally? Try to get in contact with him about some truly fantastic custom fishing pole grips. Check out my 17 inch (gap between the two attachment points) titanium tubed long throws! They are incredibly light and strong, even being run over by park ranger automobiles at the monument grounds. The Ti handles have since being photographed been converted to no-snags too, using the nail/larkshead method. They are best used during a dead calm with multiple opportunities for flailing thrown in!


Paul,

my dad has to sets of Mike's wooden handles. not my style put they are fantastic. its funny you brought up Glenn, my favorite 3 sets of handles i own are custom thread wraped by him. the 13s are pictured below and those are the grips i want. is he still around?

Jesse

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Jesse Kapsten

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#9 jburka

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 03:11 PM

Here's my set of Mike Van Meers handles. La Master's wouldn't want them -- they're too short and have my name stamped into 'em!

I've put them next to a standard B 13" handle. Most of the handles Mike made back in the mid 90's were in the 11" - 13" range; I may have the longest set he made.

The only real problem with the lack of foam is that in higher winds the handles can twist a bit in your hands; there's not enough friction from the sanded wood.

P1010480.jpg

#10 JKapsten

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:19 PM

Here's my set of Mike Van Meers handles. La Master's wouldn't want them -- they're too short and have my name stamped into 'em!

I've put them next to a standard B 13" handle. Most of the handles Mike made back in the mid 90's were in the 11" - 13" range; I may have the longest set he made.

The only real problem with the lack of foam is that in higher winds the handles can twist a bit in your hands; there's not enough friction from the sanded wood.

P1010480.jpg


That's more or less what my dad's look like.
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#11 JKapsten

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:21 PM

Does anyone know how to get ahold of Glenn Haynes?
Jesse Kapsten

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#12 REVflyer

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 02:35 AM

Try the AKA's website (search for member) or their on-line forum Jesse, . . . . I only see him at events occasionally, mostly at the kite builder clinics. You can also try at the www.Kitebuilder.com forum, he & the misses frequent there pretty often I'm bettin'.




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