Posted 08 February 2012 - 04:24 AM
If you want to eventually master the 3-D stuff, and the "throw & catch" specifically, you'll need to consider approaching your leaders somewhat differently. I'd recommend you make the top leaders as long as the distance between the two attachment points on your handles (just slightly shorter, so it can't reach the bottom attachment point). Make all tuning adjustments only on the bottom leaders (this keeps the tops a consistent length for muscle memory).
The longer the top leaders are,.. the farther you can reach out there w/o cutting your pinky fingers on the raw spectra!
Removing the sleeving on your line set is one less thing to tangle when the handles are laying on the ground or both held in one hand. I'd even mark one of 'em so you know which goes into your right hand upon quick examination.
Replacing the leaders with 100# hi-test bridle line is another recommendation. That thick dacron cord is a tangle just waiting to screw you up! Hi-test is easier to manually adjust one knot to insure you always begin with the handles "perfectly aligned, tight & equal" on a single well-placed stake ~ determines neutral/equal line lengths, BEFORE adjusting for the amount of "Down" for your preferred flight dynamics. I use a doubled strand or hi-test but only put the adjustment knots in one of those legs (easier to untie and move if ever necessary)
Practice first just throwing the kite and don't worry about how ugly the action looks in the beginning. You want it to g-l-i-d-e out while slowing rotating, to wind up inverted and parallel with the ground. It will fly farther and straighter with the SLE leading edge (more mass and stiffer, to overcome/penetrate the wind) It will be easier to fly overall with the light weight leading edge. (every modification is compromise, one way or the other). You can do this practice with the kite off of the lines. How far can you make it glide away?, but remember it's gotta' wind up inverted and parallel with the ground, bridle facing you at the end of the flight.
It's easier to do, if you throw the kite across the wind window, winding-up at the edge, in the corner. I'm severely "left handed", so I throw to the right side most of the time. I'm used to flying one handed (using my weaker hand, the right one, since I need the left hand to pull the top leaders or throw the kite)
Next, you need to practice where in the wind window to execute your pull on those top leaders. As the kite is powered-up and climbing the center of the window you need to pull, sharp and hard, ... imagine you were sitting down aggressively and did that yank as the same time, that's the kind of action necessary. Where in the window the effort is made ultimately affects the flight path. Done directly overhead and the kite drops straight down into your outstretched hand. If you execute the yank about 2/3's up in the wind window's height you'll get an arcing glide that takes much longer to reach you (so you'll really need to add some significant energy, to cut across the oncoming pressure of the wind (or do it in low/no wind!). If you don't do your yank evenly, or in the center of the wind window, you'll get a diagonal glide, or some funky stalled action.
As your overall quad skills improve, you'll find the bottom leader adjustments keep getting short and shorter (more brake). I run 3-400% longer top leader lengths than bottoms, but I fly lots in low/no wind, so all that down helps me to keep the sail square/perpendicular against the pressure.
There is no single answer to most questions, sometimes it's more about the path of discovery than the actual destination objective. Enjoy and please keep writing about your adventures on the dark side!