Posted 23 July 2007 - 03:09 AM
When I toss the kite, I hold/balance it in the middle, with the same hand holding both handles. I carefully separate the handles with a finger in between them and I also look at the front of the kite to insure no tangles are present on the bridles or flying lines (dump the sleeving, it's a tangle point and not necessary!)
The front of the kite is facing the ground while I'm holding it. The toss is executed with my index finger and depending on the line length, you may need to add momentum by taking several steps towards your target area also. I prefer to toss diagonally across the wind window. On fifty or sixty feet of line you don't need anything more than your arm movement. Imagine it's a javelin, . . . you want a nice smooth action, that acelerates away from you with the passage of time NOT a jerky motion.
The toss should cause the kite to rotate slowly, so the leading edge winds up inverted and parallel with the ground, 180 degrees from the leading edge facing the flier to facing downwind upon completion.
I believe you have more frame stability and "glide" with the magix sticks on the back of the kite.
I also don't trust the hollow ferrules either, although many of my club-mates use them without any problems. As in all things Revolution, "there are no single correct answers, it's all about your own personal preferences".
I buy my 2 ply professional use only leading edge frames with the EXP ferrules, or I use Skyshark frame members, usually the P-200s (the center tube needs to be cut down, but these tubes don't loose any strength by hackin' 'em shorter either). I have personally broken the hollow ferrules in flight and also giving lessons, but I've never had a problem with the solid carbon ones.
I do this technique all the time, it's a great crowd~pleaser. Practice, practice, practice. If I can do it, then I know you can too!