5 replies to this topic

[Joe Girgenti]

OK I have 2 sets of handles and I am not sure which ones they are. The actual measuements from tip to tip are 9.5" and 10.5", are these the 11" and 13" handles? I am thinking of buying the 15" U/L handles but want to know what these are called first.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
I am sure this might have been covered before but I tried searching and really couldn't find anything.

[Watty]

OK I have 2 sets of handles and I am not sure which ones they are. The actual measuements from tip to tip are 9.5" and 10.5", are these the 11" and 13" handles? I am thinking fo buying the 15" U/L handles but want to know what these are called first.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
I am sure this might have been covered before but I tried searching and really couldn't find anything.

Hi Joe,

The measurement that handles are named after is the length of the rod itself. Those measurements do sound about right for 11" and 13" handles.

[REVflyer]

The problem with measuring the tube (for a length-based description of the product) is it doesn't take into account how much bend there happens to be. I prefer a sharp bend up at the top, gradually straightening-out as it goes away from the grip. Some of my friends prefer two abrupt bends and straight portions between them. I've seen the straight portion up-top and the curved part on the bottom too.

If you make your own (or own a bunch of handles) it's just easier to measure the gap between the two attachment points as the descriptive phrase. (if you are ordering handles make sure you and the sales firm are both speaking the same language and understanding the meanings mutually,.... I have expected "A" and received "B" instead because I wasn't careful.)

[--Pete]

Like the ferrule/dowel issue, it's too bad that the "standard" for measuring handles has been fixed on the length-along-the-handle, rather than the tip-to-tip distance. (For one thing, it is hard to measure accurately along the handles once they are bent, whereas it is easy to measure the tip-to-tip distance, or rather the line-attachment to line-attachment distance, which is what is significant.)

It is the tip-to-tip distance that governs how the handles ACT. A given amount of tilt makes different amounts of differential in line length depending on the tip-to-tip distance, not the length of the original rod or tube.

The amount of bend, and where it is, governs personal comfort in that it sets the hand position in normal flying position, and governs how far out in front of the wrist the attachment points are (which governs the centering effect of the tension of the lines, and thus the feedback of the kite to the hand/wrist).

In another thread, someone was complaining about a tingling in the thumbs when flying. It may very well be a problem with the bend of his particular handles (or his particular 'brake' settings) forcing his wrists to a position that pinches nerves in his wrists. (Or holding the handles at a location on the handles that does the same. He might try holding the handles a bit higher or lower in his hands.)

[JasonOsteo]

Interesting point there about the thumb tingling problem, will have a think and get back to the thread on that.

[stroke survivor]

Took the time to measure my handles -11" handles= 10" between attachment points, 13"=11 1/2", 15"= 14"! Let me amend this by saying I have removed all the rings and used the "Stone in Shoe Bob" modding method!! And my 11" handles are from the '90s! But that should put things in the right area for comparison!! Personally, I like my 15" for light wind, 13" for most everything else!