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Rev Pro "No snag" Handles


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#1 Okinawa 8999

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 12:23 PM

I'm new to Rev flying and I'm curious to learn about the Rev Pro "No snag" handles. I have an idea as to what this handle is all about, just by the way it's called. I really want to know if it's worth buying and investing some money into. Plus, what is the difference between 13" and 15". Are these type of handles more for the "professionals" or can someone new to flying Revolution get some valuable help/assistance in learning to fly by using these type of handles? Can anyone please help me out? Thank you.

#2 SkyPuppet

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 01:17 PM

I believe "no snag" refers to handles that have had the metal triangle eyelet, or "hog clip", at the top and bottom of the handles removed, and have the leaders attached directly to the handle. This keeps the leader from wrapping around the handle at the top or bottom during some tricks, hence they're called "no snag".

"No snag" handles can be purchased, or you can modify your existing handles to be no-snag, as I have here:

Photo0114.jpg

Please take a moment to read this topic and thread: http://www.revkites....__1

In it, you'll find Watty's method for doing Stone in Shoe Bob's no-snag modifications on 13" handles:



I've done this to both my sets of handles now, and I love how it works out! :)

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#3 Watty

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 01:44 PM

I'm new to Rev flying and I'm curious to learn about the Rev Pro "No snag" handles. I have an idea as to what this handle is all about, just by the way it's called. I really want to know if it's worth buying and investing some money into. Plus, what is the difference between 13" and 15". Are these type of handles more for the "professionals" or can someone new to flying Revolution get some valuable help/assistance in learning to fly by using these type of handles? Can anyone please help me out? Thank you.


The Pro handles are made by Walt Ellis of LS Custom Kite Accessories. These handles are made from a solid aluminum rod, as opposed to the hollow stainless steal of the regular handles. On the ends of the handle is a hole where your pigtail can attach to instead of using the triangle ring. As SkyPuppet already mentioned, this is beneficial because the lines are less likely to get snagged on the handles. These handles are very nicely made, and I think they are worth spending a few bucks on. If you are short on cash, as SkyPuppet mentioned, you can go the Stone in Shoe Bob method and remove the rings from the regular handles.

13" and 15" handles differ in the length between the two ends of the handle. You may also see 11" and occasionally 8" handles. 13" is the standard for any 1.5 type kite. I use 13" handles on all of my kites including my Rev indoor and Rev 2. When the handles are longer, your movements have more of a significant impact on the kite. Shorter handles will cause the kite to react a little less, and you may have to make larger movements to get the kite to do something. Longer handles make the kite more reactive. Small movements have a more noticeable affect on the kite.

I wouldn't say that longer handles are for "professionals." Personally, I don't care for them just because I am so used to my 13" handles. If I spent some significant time on 15" handles, I may get accustomed. I would say to try the different handles when you are starting, and see what you like most, then stick with it.

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#4 Jeepster

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 04:25 PM

... 13" and 15" handles differ in the length between the two ends of the handle. ...


Just in case someone tries to measure their handles: The length (11", 13" or 15") refers to the length of the original tubing blank that is used to form the handle. Not the straight line distance between the two D-rings or the ends of the tubes. On the standard 13" handles, the distance between the D-rings is somewhere in the vicinity of 11.5 inches.

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Tom

#5 stroke survivor

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Posted 30 May 2011 - 09:50 PM

I like to use both lengths, long handles (15") for light winds, short handles (13") for higher winds!! I've also used Watty's "Stone in Shoe Bob" method to mod both my handles and my sons', 4 sets total, and had no problems at all!! Try whatever you can easily get your hands on and make your own decisions about what works for you!!Posted Image

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#6 Okinawa 8999

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 11:25 AM

I just wanted to take a moment to say thank you to everyone for your reponse, as they are all very informative.

#7 prawnstar

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 07:56 PM

@watty  - what size plastic plugs are you using in the handles? 

 

ive tried a couple of different ones and have found that they pop out a fraction from the handle end, once installed....

 

thanks



#8 stroke survivor

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 08:28 PM

I've used size #8-10 plastic anchors with #10 screws many times with no issues!! The anchors should need to be gently driven in place and putting the screw in there, secures it well!


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#9 Theresa

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 10:19 PM

@watty  - what size plastic plugs are you using in the handles? 

 

ive tried a couple of different ones and have found that they pop out a fraction from the handle end, once installed....

 

thanks

Hi! I see you are in Australia. I'm sorry to say that we know there is a difference in metric sizes and US sizes. :(

 

Here in the states, Watty uses the Blue sized plugs. I do not think there is a metric size that is the same. The next size, up or down, is either too small or too big.

https://www.google.c...ved=0CGsQ8wIwAg



#10 prawnstar

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 11:24 PM

they do make them in various sizes etc

 

http://www.ramset.co...n-Frame-Anchors

 

http://www.ramset.co...n-Drive-Anchors

 

are the two im looking at

 

by the measurements on the blue ones, i think i need the 7mm  size in the orange ramset - the blue dimensions are 6.35mm x 30 mm....... might need a decent tap on the head to get them in there



#11 Dayhiker

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 12:34 AM

When I modified a set of handles I had to deburr the tube ends & square them up a bit.  You can scrape the sides of the plastic anchor plugs to customize the fit if the plug diameter is too large.  Hold a blade perpendicular to the plug & scratch along it to remove small amounts of plastic.  Or you can just drive them in with a hammer letting the tube shave material off the plug.  I purchased new vinyl end caps from an industrial supply outfit in black & white.  Routed the leaders through the tops of the caps & used different colors, white for the top, black for the bottom.  I also marked one white cap with a red stripe of vinyl coating to make one handle distinctively different.  Maybe this is too much detailed information.  Recently got some 0.375" scrap 6061-T6 aluminum rod to fabricate my own snagless style handles.  But that will be a winter evening project in a few months.


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A woman & the kids, & the dogs & me"

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#12 SparkieRob

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 02:05 AM

they do make them in various sizes etc

http://www.ramset.co...n-Frame-Anchors

http://www.ramset.co...n-Drive-Anchors

are the two im looking at

by the measurements on the blue ones, i think i need the 7mm size in the orange ramset - the blue dimensions are 6.35mm x 30 mm....... might need a decent tap on the head to get them in there

Use the Blue Plugs and an 8G 35mm Bugle head screw. Get stainless if you can or the "gold" ones will do. Bevel the end you tap in. Leave the end proud 2-3 mm. I've done a few sets.

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#13 prawnstar

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 03:07 AM

Use the Blue Plugs and an 8G 35mm Bugle head screw. Get stainless if you can or the "gold" ones will do. Bevel the end you tap in. Leave the end proud 2-3 mm. I've done a few sets.


Where'd you get the blue ones from? Bunnings only have the Ramset brand

#14 SparkieRob

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 04:40 AM

Blue is 8mm, they are one size up from green (6.5mm). Yep Bunnings should have them by the sh#t load. The green ones are ok but I didn't feel very secure with them, once I get a bit active..... Any dramas PM me and I'll post you a dozen or so.

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#15 stroke survivor

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 08:45 AM

When you do the mod - be really careful - there is a nasty burr under the cap for the holes that the ring goes in! Watch you don't cut yourself! Use a file to remove it!!


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#16 prawnstar

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 03:19 PM

don't worry I've found the burr several times already :)

#17 prawnstar

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:16 PM

It is done :)

Had to make the opening a fraction larger to get the blue ones in.

Happy now




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