11 replies to this topic

[Iwan]

Hi All,

I`am back again with some new pictures, It`s a new start and a total different dogstake .
This dogstake is gonna be much and much better than my previous topic.
Every time i finished something i will put some pictures on this topic.


Iwan

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Edited by Iwan, 28 November 2010 - 11:15 PM.

[Jonesey]

Hi All,

I`am back again with some new pictures, It`s a new start and a total different dogstake .
This dogstake is gonna be much and much better than my previous topic.
Every time i finished something i will put some pictures on this topic.

Iwan

I gave up on blocks and used one of these .. worked a treat ...big enough to pass handles through etc ... My ability to take advantage of it in the other hand ......

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Edited by Jonesey, 14 October 2010 - 10:22 AM.

[Clin]

Thanks Iwan! Did you fabricate these yourself?

Cheers,
Chua

[REVflyer]

I made one as well, it's a slippery as possible with ceramic disks only that touch the lines. Dog-stake flying WELL still is tougher to master than developing gills and breathing under water! I don't even know where the darn device is anymore,.... maybe Weider has it?

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[mbro]

Hey Revflyer, could'nt help but notice the pica pole, you must be a fellow printer, "right on".

[Iwan]

Hi

Next step:
As you can see the pulley`s are mounted to a frame , the bottom bolt is a fixed point.
The stainless pin on the top connect 1 side of each pulley so when you take it out it`s possible to turn 1 side of each pulley towards you.
Now you can get youre lines inside the pulley`s .

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[Iwan]

Hi ,

The Dog stake is completed as you see on the pictures ,

The pulley`s can turn horizontal 360 degrees .
The big pin is used for getting the stake into the ground after that` s done you can take it out . (Maybe use it to protect yourself)

I still need to fine tune the dogstake and start polishing the whole thing .

Movie link will be here on this topic in beginning 2011


Iwan

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Edited by Iwan, 28 November 2010 - 11:16 PM.

[--Pete]

The Dog stake is completed as you see on the pictures ,
<snip>
I still need to fine tune the dogstake and start polishing the whole thing so i hope to test it within a month.
<snip>

Iwan,

Are the sheave bolts shoulder bolts? (With a polished cylindrical section through the cheeks and sheave followed by a smaller threaded section for the nut. Sometimes called stripper bolts.)

Or are they plain bolts? (Partially threaded, but essentially all the same diameter.)

I recommend using shoulder bolts, which will allow you to tighten the nut fully, and still allow the sheave to rotate freely. The cylindrical portion of shoulder bolts is typically polished and of an accurate diameter, which would allow your sheave to turn more freely.

If you have to use plain, partially threaded bolts, let me suggest using elastic stopnuts (sometimes called Nylock™ - which is a tradename of Forest Fasteners) like the one pictured at the top of the vertical shaft. This will allow you to leave the sheave loose without risking having the device come apart at an inopportune time.

Upper bolt: 5/16"-18 partially threaded bolt w/ elastic stop nut.
Lower bolt: Shoulder bolt 5/16 x 5/8" shoulder, 1/4-20 thread w/ plain hex nut.

Here is a US source for Shoulder Bolts: http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=9bd6t7

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Edited by --Pete, 17 October 2010 - 07:19 AM.

[Iwan]

Iwan,

Are the sheave bolts shoulder bolts? (With a polished cylindrical section through the cheeks and sheave followed by a smaller threaded section for the nut. Sometimes called stripper bolts.)

Or are they plain bolts? (Partially threaded, but essentially all the same diameter.)

I recommend using shoulder bolts, which will allow you to tighten the nut fully, and still allow the sheave to rotate freely. The cylindrical portion of shoulder bolts is typically polished and of an accurate diameter, which would allow your sheave to turn more freely.

If you have to use plain, partially threaded bolts, let me suggest using elastic stopnuts (sometimes called Nylock™ - which is a tradename of Forest Fasteners) like the one pictured at the top of the vertical shaft. This will allow you to leave the sheave loose without risking having the device come apart at an inopportune time.

Upper bolt: 5/16"-18 partially threaded bolt w/ elastic stop nut.
Lower bolt: Shoulder bolt 5/16 x 5/8" shoulder, 1/4-20 thread w/ plain hex nut.

Here is a US source for Shoulder Bolts: http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=9bd6t7

Hello Pete,

I was planning to use all the nylock bolts and shoulder bolts to complete the dogstake.
The picture shows just a temp. fixed dogstake have to polish everything first.
But i am glad that you informed me about it in case that i did not know.

Best regard

Iwan

[Baloo]

Looks pretty good to me.

[fungus]

re jonesey
very smooth and shiny - but doesn't the rigging get in the way ?

fungus

[NJI]

what's the status of this project?