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Stuck ferrell


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#1 quaa714

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 01:45 PM

Went to set up an LE today and discovered one of the ferrels had sliiped down in to the spar where it is now stuck..
Whats the best way to get it un-stuck?

"Cya in the Sand!....."

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#2 cadguy

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 04:05 PM

Let's see.... you could blow really hard into the open end...just try not to pass out. Posted Image Posted Image
or use a smaller diameter 36" wooden dowel or carbon rod to push it out.
Does the indoor rev leading edge fit into the 1/4" rod? Or an old dual line leading edge perhaps.
I still think you should try blowing it out first and video tape it at the same time. Make it into an instructional video. There ya go, that's the ticket!

Rev UP!
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#3 Jim Foster

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 06:23 PM

Not a new problem. I have had this happen. See if you can get the ferrell out of the other end. If you can, then you can run something into the rod and push the ferrell out. I have used a long piece of welding rod. If the rod you use is not long enough, drop it inside and use it like a slide hammer, and drive the ferrell out. If you can not do that, push the ferrell on in and install another. The rod will be a little heavier, but not enough to notice. The weight of one ferrell is not much at all.

As a matter of fact, think I put that rod in with my kite stuff for our summer trip.

Edited by Jim Foster, 01 August 2010 - 06:26 PM.

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#4 Scott_of_melnsct

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 07:04 PM

I have an idea that I haven't tested. Pour some rubbing alcohol into the rod, swish it around a bit then dump it out. This should provide some temporary lubrication until the alcohol dries. It may also leave you a cleaner surface for regluing the ferrel later. While the inside of the rod is still wet, tap the open end gently on the floor. I would do this in the kitchen or bathroom.
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#5 Jeepster

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 07:48 PM

This has worked for me.

Take a non-ferruled tube and place it end for end with the end of the tube that contains the slipped ferrule. Tape the two rods together rather tightly. Then drop the combined pair of rods - like an arrow - onto a wooden board. You can also hit the end of the tube with the board, but dropping (throwing) it seems to keep it more perpendicular to the board surface. Use a small diameter wire/dowel to check the position of the ferrule instead of taking the two tubes apart.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Tom

#6 play365

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 04:30 AM

Put the other end in some hot water to soften the glue remove the ferrell and get some thing that fits inside the spar and push the other out ......then reglue with hot glue job done Posted Image prob best to mark the centre of the ferrell with some tape so you only push it in half way .......hope this helps ..allways works for me Posted Image
GARY




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#7 AldenMiler

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 10:09 AM

Was this the center spar? If so then I am guessing the other ferrule is still epoxied in place.

If it is then tapping on the side of the spar might make the ferrule move but if it's a tight fit it's probably not moving. Tom's suggestion is probably the best bet for this.

If the ferrule slipped into one of the outer spars (I doubt it though) then air pressure in the other end ought to make it shoot out like a bullet.

-Alden
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#8 awindofchange

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 11:23 AM

Jeepster has the fix, done many of them this way.

Just tape the end rod onto the center rod where the ferule has slipped in, turn it over and then lightly tap the rod against the ground and the ferule will slide back out. If it slides to far and into the other rod, you can poke it out through the open end.

It works very easily. Once the ferule is out, re-glue it back into the rod and your good to go.

#9 antman

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:06 PM

reading this post im shocked!!! i have never had this happen before..i have broken lots of rods as lolly and the gang well knowbut never have i had a problem with a ferrel
GOD PUT ME HERE. TO ENJOY THE WINDS

#10 quaa714

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 01:01 PM

Thanks all for the replies!

Will let you know how I make out.

"Cya in the Sand!....."

"Slack lines are fine lines!"


"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows" BD
"One good thing about music, when it hits you feel no pain" BM
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#11 kwmf

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 01:06 AM

Now that we have a bunch of useful answers and the question won't hijack the thread .... what glue is recommended for ferrules?




#12 REVflyer

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 02:38 AM

Crazy glue type products are very brittle (ferrule dislocates upon a sharp impact- like a tip stab on a concrete seawall for example), epoxy is quite flexible by comparison. Rounding the end of the ferrule is just smart kiting to lessen wear on the leading edge sleeve from pinching the fabric whilst trying to assemble the tubes.

First, clean-out with a skinny brush, to remove the release coating inside the tube, then use 2 part epoxy and mix-up more than you need paying careful attention to the proportions! Affix a vinyl electrical tape "stopper" at the half-away point on the ferrule, slather on the mixed well epoxy and slip the ferrule into the tube butted against this stopper. When dry (wait at least an hour despite using five minute epoxy!) carefully take an emory board (nail file) and round off the very end of the ferrule so it inserts more easily and doesn't pinch the fabric during assembly.

If you do both ends of the leading edge tube, you have to actually tape the ferrule in position, so it doesn't move from the compressed air pressure behind the ferrule. When the adhesive is dry, the tape easily removes for a nice clean finished look on the edge.

Most ferrules eventually let go, be prepared for this inevitable fact. Check your tubes occasionally by feeling along the leading edge during assembly and see if they have moved or are loose at all before it slips inside completely flush and you're forced to deal with another dilemma before you can even fix the problem.

#13 play365

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 03:56 AM

hot glue that way you can get them apart again and do on the field repairs if needed , just carry a stick of glue and a lighter
GARY




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#14 Jeepster

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 05:41 AM

A couple of additions to RevFlyer's post.

Chuck the ferrule in your portable drill or drill press. Turn on the drill and round the end of the ferrule with a fine grained sand paper ... slightly round it, don't turn it into a sphere. Turn the ferrule around and do the same to the other end.

RevFlyer gave you great advice on using a small brush to remove the mold release. A gun cleaning brush is just the ticket. That's what arrow shaft manufacturers recommend!

Use a dowel to evenly spread a small amount of epoxy on the inside of the rod (tube for the purists.) You simply want to "wet" the inside surface for good bonding. By rounding off the second end of the ferrule, you'll prevent it from simply pushing this epoxy into the rod when it's being inserted.

I like to wipe off any epoxy that gets on the outside of the rod or ferrule before it drys, so skip putting a strip of tape on the ferrule. Use a small piece of wood marked at two inches to measure how much of the ferrule is sticking out of the rod. Coat the end of the ferrule with epoxy ... right up to 1/4 inch short of the insertion line. Insert the ferrule turning it slightly to spread the epoxy evenly and maximize the contact area. When the ferrule is just short of being at it's final resting location, use rubbing alcohol to clean off the external epoxy. Then insert the ferrule the final 1/4 inch and tape in place ... just a small piece, not the whole roll. Yep, even though it's five minute epoxy, allow it to dry overnight before using the rod.

The other great piece of advice from RevFlyer is to periodically check your ferrules to be sure they haven't come loose.

Cheers,
Tom

#15 Scott A.

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 07:26 AM

Buy another ROD. lol
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#16 REVflyer

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 07:36 AM

Buy another ROD. lol



or whole new kite and hide in the price enough funds to include a replacement spar

Also, I disagree with any hot glue recommendations,
why consider field repairs?, .... just fix it right the first time and be done with it

#17 kwmf

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 07:42 AM

While I don't have any ferrule issues at the moment ... I'm sure glad I asked the question - there is a lot of good useful info here that I'm sure others have wondered but never asked.

#18 Vince

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 08:23 AM

I have found super glue works well. However, I would not recommend the gel type as it dries and bonds in a nano second and I have found on occasion I am not as quick at positioning the ferrule as the glue is at bonding. Hot water releases the bond so it's not the end of the world (or the spar).
Vince



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#19 Scott_of_melnsct

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 10:46 AM

Gorilla makes an impact resistant super glue. Note: "resistant" not "proof". This is less work by far than epoxy or hot glue and so far, in my experience, works very well.
Scott A Koenig
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#20 quaa714

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 01:32 PM

Buy another ROD. lol


HAHAHAHAHA..............or that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"Cya in the Sand!....."

"Slack lines are fine lines!"


"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows" BD
"One good thing about music, when it hits you feel no pain" BM
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