Slidey Foam Grips
#1
Posted 20 July 2010 - 11:43 AM
I have a little problem that I need to correct as soon as possible really – The foam on my handles have both become unstuck and are now sliding on the stainless bar so controlling the kite is now not as accurate as I would like. How do I correct this? Is there a suitable adhesive that doesn't cost the earth?
Thank you
Chris
#2
Posted 20 July 2010 - 11:56 AM
This is a great way to fix the problem i guess..........A BIG friend of mine from the UK gave it to me and i must say...it worked great !!!!
And another tip (Allso from the UK !!) :
There are three ways you can do this. Firstly shape the end of the rubber using some sand paper(for DIY) then either:
1, take the tape and wrap a small piece around the handle at the place where the foam will be at the top so that it looks like a ring on the handle. Repeat this down the handle until you get to the end of the grip with gaps of about 20mm between each piece of tape.
or
2. take a strip of tape as long as the grip and put it on the handle in line with the hole on the front of the handle (as if you were holding it) do the same for the back of the grip.
or
3. take a long strip of tape and spiral it down the handle for the length of the grip with a gap of about 10mm between the tape.
The last one is my preferred technique.
Then when you are ready to put the foam on the handle make a solution of 1 part washing up liquid to 9 parts water. Rub a good amount of this liquid onto the tape then quickly push the foam on. (be sure to mark the handle with the position for the grip) I pushed the foam down onto the handle as it gave me a larger area to grip it.
Good luck !!
Edited by Madquad, 20 July 2010 - 12:04 PM.
It's not the size of your Rev.. its how you use it.
Seven days without flying a Rev makes one weak.
http://www.air-4-ce.nl
#3
Posted 20 July 2010 - 12:36 PM
Remove the foam grip, clean away any glue residue.
Stick double sided tape to the handles, use enough to get even grip over the length of the foam. Make sure the tape is well stuck with no rippling (this is important), smaller pieces of tape but more of them works best.
Stir a good squirt of liquid soap into a small cup of water and leave to settle for a while to allow the majority of the bubbles to burst. Then peel off the backing strip from the tape, dip a finger into the diluted soap and smear it liberally over the exposed tape. The soapy water acts as a lubricant and stops the tape from sticking while the grips are positioned. Once you are happy with the position of the grips leave them to dry and stick overnight.
NB. If there are any ripples between the tape and the handles the soapy water will get under and lift the tape if this happens the best option is to give up, clean up, and start again.
It's Good to Share the Joy.
#4
Posted 20 July 2010 - 12:40 PM
It's Good to Share the Joy.
#5
Posted 22 July 2010 - 12:50 PM
That sounds like the way forward - much appreciated.
Chris
#6
Posted 23 July 2010 - 03:33 AM
Works like a charm, drying over night.
#7
Posted 23 July 2010 - 12:45 PM
Another option - thank you very much.
Chris
#8
Posted 23 July 2010 - 11:46 PM
Poxy sounds more permenant though. As long as you are brave enough.
#9
Posted 24 July 2010 - 04:53 AM
Cheers,
Tom
#10
Posted 24 July 2010 - 07:40 AM
why wouldn't you want the foam grips to be stuck in place forever? After the pyramids have fallen down, I 'd still want my grips still locked into the proper position. I'm a flailer, I need it immediately strong and durable over the long term! Do it right the first time and you could pull a tractor out of the ditch without the foam letting go.
How does the factory put 'em onto their metal or carbon? I always thought they used epoxy too, . . .... at least it looks like a little bead of that stuff surrounds my grips.
#11
Posted 24 July 2010 - 11:28 AM
Edited by Jim Foster, 24 July 2010 - 11:31 AM.
#12
Posted 24 July 2010 - 12:38 PM
#13
Posted 24 July 2010 - 01:11 PM
I guess my only concern is
why wouldn't you want the foam grips to be stuck in place forever?
Paul,
You'd never notice any difference between golf club tape and epoxy in use ... remember, golf clubs take a get more twisting and turning than our handles. However, to answer your question, here are a couple of reasons why the semi-permanent method appeals to me.
1) With my first set of Rev handles, I found my self flying with the pointer finger off on the tubing more often than not. Since the Rev grips were epoxied on, I couldn't move them without destroying the foam. Then I made some anodized aluminum handles and experimented around with the location of the foam. To be effective, that experimenting needed a semi-permanent installation method.
2) My first grips were made with EVA foam ... my son loves it, but it feels too slippery for my tastes. Those were installed with epoxy. Instead of simply removing them with a solvent, I had to cutting them off and spend considerable time getting all the epoxy off.
3) A friend of mine purchased some powder coating equipment. We colored one handle set a candy apple red! Great looking handles, except that my friend didn't have the powder coating process down pat ... some of the powder coating is chipping off. No problem though, I'll simply remove the grips and get the rods re-coated as soon as he has the process refined.
Cheers,
Tom
#14
Posted 24 July 2010 - 01:15 PM
But Jim, your handles are only used on sunny afternoons by a gentle grandfatherly flier!!!!I pushed the grip to where it should be. Then I pushed a small screwdriver down between the grip and the steel and stretched the grip away from the handle. I then put several drops of superglue down the little space and pulled the screwdriver out. Takes about 10 seconds per handle. That was a year ago. Grips are still in the correct place.
Cheers,
Tom
#15
Posted 24 July 2010 - 08:07 PM
But Jim, your handles are only used on sunny afternoons by a gentle grandfatherly flier!!!!
Cheers,
Tom
Or in 20-25mph at Pismo Beach or Bodega Bay or Seal Beach. We have been blown off of all of those beaches.
No kidding, the glue trick works very well.
And yes, I am a grandfather. That just seems to happen to us old guys.
#16
Posted 24 July 2010 - 09:08 PM
I used almost an identical procedure as you "except" I used rubber cement. That was back around 1993 or 1994. It is still holding well today.I pushed the grip to where it should be. Then I pushed a small screwdriver down between the grip and the steel and stretched the grip away from the handle. I then put several drops of superglue down the little space and pulled the screwdriver out. Takes about 10 seconds per handle. That was a year ago. Grips are still in the correct place.
Long John (formerly Mr. R)
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#17
Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:02 PM
Is there a way to release the epoxy so I can re-position the grip, without destroying it?
#18
Posted 26 June 2012 - 02:31 AM
If the grips are too slippery you can always soften up the outsides with steel wool too. Pretend they're all dirty and underneath that grime is a white grip. Scrub the handles with sink cleanser and the steel wool under running water. They'll get a nice peach fuzzy feeling and they won't slip around in a sweaty grip (they will naturally gain more grime since the surface is more 3 dimensional now)
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