you could next time order your B-Series (or the Pro-

with the SUL leading edge, instead of 3.9 ounce dacron that comes standard
you could order some "blemished" tapered tubes in a lighter weight configuration for the down spars from another manufacturer
you could fly without a bridle or modify one for a more direct response
you could go to longer handles for increased throw length and sensitivity
you should certain stay on 90# LPG regardless of length, even indoors (except having one team-set of 50# - 120's)
practice the "archer move", get used to the kite being laid-out flat with the leading edge approaching "parallel with the ground" and pointed towards the horizon
learn how to pump the handles for a short burst of sudden power, (don't pull it out of the sky though, a smooth transition of energy application yields the maximum effect)
use your feet, arms and the kite's own mass to create momentum, mastering the leading edge down from the top of the window position, to recover your field, for example
grip light, (don't squeeze an angry cobra)
add more "DOWN" in your tuning than you think is appropriate, . . . so you're "squared-up with the wind" (that old plywood sheet, remember?)
watch (or better yet ~ get yourself a coach!~), so you can witness the proper techniques, that will save years of learning time!
I know a little bit about no wind and the swirls, having moved from Chicago to Ft Lauderdale. Then, when I arrived in DC ('93), I found out none of my kites would even fly 1/2 of the year here! I have since made no-wind flying a speciality and preferred set of conditions. Most of my kites are tuned or even highly modified for these conditions, it is the most common, so why not?
Your skills will grow faster when you have to add some of the energy instead of relying on the kite/wind combination entirely. I laugh every year at Richmond's annual sport kite competition. Someone arrives in from a home-place that ALWAYS has wind, 30 seconds into their routine they are backed-up into a corner, dead. The locals on the other hand, have a home-court advantage if you will, i guess that could be said everywhere truthfully.
My ideal no wind set-up is 65 or 70 feet in length (for practice), but to show-off at a festival I'll drop to 50 feet. I almost always use a full sail, SUL leading edge, 1.5 size format with different bridles. My lightest weight one has "Breeze" down-spars and micro-carbon magic sticks with a Race leading edge tube, spectra only bridle. It's the original B-Series sail, an old one, before the pro was released. It was quite possibly dipped in magic dust, it simply outflies all other kites I own, maybe it's the stretched-out panels? I have a ZEN which I'm still learning, that kite is a hoot in no wind (SLOW though by comparison). All these kites could take a steady 6 mph breeze safely plus being worthy of flight in a dead calm, practice is the difference few want to consider. Almost anyone could fly a kite for a couple of minutes in tough conditions if they had to. But when your desire is to do it all day long, every Sunday minimum, you eventually either quit flying entirely or embrace the no-wind dark side. I'm a busted-up old guy besides, I don't run anymore. I have kites that will float on a fart in church, . . . don't make me risk Ashworth's 1.6 Orcon outside please.
Frame too lightly, you'll have zero mass and no durability either! Every significant modification is compromise, how far off into deep-end do you want to leap? (just so you can fly one-footed <LOL!>