Posted 16 March 2010 - 01:49 AM
work on WHERE you make the tug,
as well as how far to pull and
how sharply the action needs to be delivered.
I like to pull as the kite is reaching 2/3's to 3/4's of the wind-window in height, and as it is moving forward (up).
I use long throw handles, which allows for a longer top leader (just short of the bottom attachment point is the correct length), which means I can reach out there further without cutting myself on the raw spectra. I don't use sleeving, that's a tangle point to be avoided. My leaders are 100# high test bridle line with single overhand knots for adjustments (small and less likely to catch with all the slack lines flying around)
Begin by making dramatic pulls
like you were dislodging a truck from the snow bank, then work on lessing the action until you have just enough to make it work.
The kite should arc towards the pilot, not be yanked straight off a table top. It has to continue up, then gradually arches over and finally falls/(glides down) to the pilot's outstretched hand smoothly.
If you can get the kite to go all the way past you overhead and beyond, and catch it now that you're facing into the wind, that's how much of a pull is desired for your practice.
Next time you do this "level of pull" have the kite not perfectly square to you, so the flight path is angled towards the high corner of the wind window as it is moving forward (up). Now the kite should grab the wind as it slows down and crests the top of the motion. The wind will turn it back down wind ever so slowly and the glide should carry it all the way back down to an inverted paste as your one-handed finish (this horseshoe shaped catch/throw thingy is easier with the speed series of kites)
Now that you have all the components you just need to lessen everything so it's magical looking, just enough to pull it all together. This is where your kite will demonstrate it's gliding potential, critical to acquiring the low wind skill tolerance, dare I say acceptance? we all crave so deeply.