Hmmmm. I found I had less twists once I started straight winding. I think the key no matter what way you unwind, is to do it slowly and with a little slack.
Line Managment and care
Started by big bri, Nov 03 2009 12:39 AM
25 replies to this topic
#21
Posted 04 November 2009 - 04:42 AM
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#22
Posted 04 November 2009 - 06:44 AM
JBs take on the twists and winding.From a while ago[waits for monks to say,,,,ITs Me...lol]
http://www.revkites....h...ic=3187&hl=
BRIAN...
Heh, not in this case, I am a reformed figure eight winder. I honestly believe straight winding is the way to go, I've had far less issues since moving to that method.
David Hathaway, Revisionist
-~ REVisions
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Postatem obscuri lateris nescitis!
-~ REVisions
-~ www.simian-studios.ca
-~ www.teamiquad.com
Postatem obscuri lateris nescitis!
#23
Posted 04 November 2009 - 07:16 AM
Just a little leg pull Monks.
Seems streight winding is ahead atm.
BRIAN...
Seems streight winding is ahead atm.
BRIAN...
#25
Posted 04 November 2009 - 10:25 AM
The lines get caught on the winder less if all four lines are under equal tension. That way one doesn't fall slack as you unwind, therefore not pulling off the winder as you walk away from your stake. (I stake my handles and walk away from the handles letting the line flow off the winder.) Recently I've found that keeping my winding hand a tad farther from the winder as it passes around it (longer radius) allows the four lines passing through my fingers to even up before wrapping onto the winder.
Scott A Koenig
Founding member: Tennessee Wind Militia
"We muster to fly at a moment's notice"
Founding member: Tennessee Wind Militia
"We muster to fly at a moment's notice"
#26
Posted 15 October 2010 - 09:47 AM
Winder, eight, halo, spool, handles - it makes no difference. The ONE thing that makes a difference (concerning getting twists in the line, or wraps between lines) is that you must take it off the winder exactly the same way you put it on. If you wrap line(s) onto a halo from one side, you must let the line(s) off from the same side. Each wrap puts a 360 twist in the line; each unwrap (or face the wrap side away from you and let the line(s) spin off). Each unwrap take out a 360 twist, leaving the line exactly with the same condition (in terms of twist/wraps) as you put it on the winder.
If you unwrap from the other side each unwrap adds another 360, leaving the line(s) with line-length/winder-circumference x2 full twists. These twists are added to every time you wrap from one side and unwrap from the other. Eventually this will destroy a single line. (You have to unwrap a line set to use it, so wraps don't accumulate.)
Letting a halo or spool spin in your hands, letting the line(s) off tangentially after wrapping from the side, fails to undo the twists that were put in during the wrap.
I like figure-eight wraps (on handles or a winding board with u-shaped notches) or asymmetrical halos (makes it easy to wrap/unwrap from the same side).
I also have a crank-winder that doesn't put in twists/wraps during winding or unwinding, but it is bulky. It has guide fingers to assure that there are no wraps in line sets.
If you unwrap from the other side each unwrap adds another 360, leaving the line(s) with line-length/winder-circumference x2 full twists. These twists are added to every time you wrap from one side and unwrap from the other. Eventually this will destroy a single line. (You have to unwrap a line set to use it, so wraps don't accumulate.)
Letting a halo or spool spin in your hands, letting the line(s) off tangentially after wrapping from the side, fails to undo the twists that were put in during the wrap.
I like figure-eight wraps (on handles or a winding board with u-shaped notches) or asymmetrical halos (makes it easy to wrap/unwrap from the same side).
I also have a crank-winder that doesn't put in twists/wraps during winding or unwinding, but it is bulky. It has guide fingers to assure that there are no wraps in line sets.
--Pete
(sesquipedalian man)
(sesquipedalian man)
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