Jump to content


Photo

Lineset Recommendations


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 jmanwaring

jmanwaring
  • Forum Member
  • 24 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:San Clemente, CA

Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:09 PM

Facts:
  • Right now I only have one lineset
  • My current quad lineset is 90# x 85'
  • I have a standard 1.5 SLE
  • I have a standard Baressi 1.5
  • I am getting a Rev 2
  • I normally fly at parks or beaches
  • I normally fly in winds that range from 2mph to 12 mph
Question:
  • What other lineset lengths/strengths would you recommend that I acquire?
Please let me know.
Thank you! :)

#2 REVflyer

REVflyer

    Rev Guru

  • Forum Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,327 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Germantown Maryland

Posted 17 April 2007 - 03:24 AM

you might enjoy a short set for those very low wind days or if you wanted to work on slack line & trick flying. A "throw & catch" on 85 feet is really quite tough, .... I'd say you'd need a set more like 50 feet to learn to do this stuff reliably.

Team flying is generally done on 120 ft sets.

In both cases I'd recommend the LaserPro Gold 90 pound strength as it has a higher modulus (stiffness) which can greatly reduce any tangles. I use it indoors as well, 'cause a tangle in there is a death sentence! Indoor lengths are sort of based upon your location, you might need 12 feet one day and 20 the next.

I would seriously consider buying a roll of a thousand feet and making-up my own sets. In the long run it's cheaper and you can do it if I can!!!

Take a pair of forceps (acquired from a sporting goods store in the fishing department) and use them as you measuring device to tie the knots, this way your efforts are repeatable. You'd also need a Sharpie pen or two in different colors to distinguish tops and bottoms visually.

Pinch the line at the end with the forceps and lock 'em down. Then pull the line over the forceps, point to finger area twice around. (this measures out the lengths of the loops) Grasp that point in your fingers securely and remove the forceps. Place the forceps at this new location and add a knot at the endpoint as an overhand, then tie another knot, this time a double overhand and snug that knot down against the first knot by pulling it hard in two directions until it slides into the final location. Now tie a figure of eight knot to close off the loop at the other end. What you have now is a string with no sleeving (it's a sure tangle point when gobs of slack are laying out there!), but there's the two knots at the very end of the loop so you have a small area to remove the larkshead at that the end of the day.

Lay-out the lines on a stake (actually you'll need two stakes or a tie-down point on a fence or something else that is rigid/immovable). Walk out four times the desired length and then use "division" to make the sets all an equal length. Lay the first loop over the stake, walk out the length desired, then tie a second loop using the forceps to hold the end-point. Next walk back to the first loop carefully carrying the second loop in your hand. Place both loops over the same stake and go back to the other end. Pull both lines tight using the forceps as the middle point. Since it's polished steel the lines with center themselves. Pinch that center point a little short and melt the spectra to make two lines instead of one that was folded in half. Add your loops to the two newly melted ends. Now add those loops over a new stake and divide them again in half just like the first time. Add your loops so you now have four equal lines. Place all four loops over one of the stakes and go back to the loose ends. Pull each line individually and compare them to each other. Should one of them be slightly long you can add a double overhand knot into the longer line's loop to easily shorten it.

Next affix your handles and pull 'em up tight, again compare the two sides and insure they are perfectly aligned, top and bottoms of each side. Finally mark either the tops or the bottom lines with the Sharpie. If you've got two pens mark each line, for example I use Red on the tops and blue on the bottoms. If I grabbed a set that was only colored once I'd still know where they go on the other end at the kite.

At the end of the day, land the kite and remove the flying lines. Place them over a stake and go back to the handles. Pull 'em tight and see if they still align perfectly. Should one line be slightly longer you know a double overhand knot will suffice to bring them back to the perfection you have established as a standard. Now you can either wind the lines over a card, or just wrap 'em around the handles. If you intend to wrap around the handles, you have to bring all four lines to a central point on the foam and pinch 'em in place before you start winding. At the very end, force the four lines inbetween the foam to hold everything together until you next flight.

NEVER let anyone else wind up your lines and always wind them up under tension!

Next time you are ready to use the lines again just unwrap enough of the length to place a stake inbetween the two lines and walk backwards unwinding under tension. When you get to the ends of the lines, separate the handles and pull 'em tight. All the twists will proceed back to the stake and you will not have any problems with nesting, tangles or twists. If you wrap up your lines over a winding card do one side first and then place the other side on top of the first two lines. Again you'll never have a big problem if you wind and unwind under tension.

Always tie off the top & bottom (on each side) before winding.

#3 jmanwaring

jmanwaring
  • Forum Member
  • 24 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:San Clemente, CA

Posted 18 April 2007 - 07:30 PM

you might enjoy a short set for those very low wind days or if you wanted to work on slack line & trick flying. A "throw & catch" on 85 feet is really quite tough, .... I'd say you'd need a set more like 50 feet to learn to do this stuff reliably.

Team flying is generally done on 120 ft sets.

In both cases I'd recommend the LaserPro Gold 90 pound strength as it has a higher modulus (stiffness) which can greatly reduce any tangles. I use it indoors as well, 'cause a tangle in there is a death sentence! Indoor lengths are sort of based upon your location, you might need 12 feet one day and 20 the next.

I would seriously consider buying a roll of a thousand feet and making-up my own sets. In the long run it's cheaper and you can do it if I can!!!

Take a pair of forceps (acquired from a sporting goods store in the fishing department) and use them as you measuring device to tie the knots, this way your efforts are repeatable. You'd also need a Sharpie pen or two in different colors to distinguish tops and bottoms visually.

Pinch the line at the end with the forceps and lock 'em down. Then pull the line over the forceps, point to finger area twice around. (this measures out the lengths of the loops) Grasp that point in your fingers securely and remove the forceps. Place the forceps at this new location and add a knot at the endpoint as an overhand, then tie another knot, this time a double overhand and snug that knot down against the first knot by pulling it hard in two directions until it slides into the final location. Now tie a figure of eight knot to close off the loop at the other end. What you have now is a string with no sleeving (it's a sure tangle point when gobs of slack are laying out there!), but there's the two knots at the very end of the loop so you have a small area to remove the larkshead at that the end of the day.

Lay-out the lines on a stake (actually you'll need two stakes or a tie-down point on a fence or something else that is rigid/immovable). Walk out four times the desired length and then use "division" to make the sets all an equal length. Lay the first loop over the stake, walk out the length desired, then tie a second loop using the forceps to hold the end-point. Next walk back to the first loop carefully carrying the second loop in your hand. Place both loops over the same stake and go back to the other end. Pull both lines tight using the forceps as the middle point. Since it's polished steel the lines with center themselves. Pinch that center point a little short and melt the spectra to make two lines instead of one that was folded in half. Add your loops to the two newly melted ends. Now add those loops over a new stake and divide them again in half just like the first time. Add your loops so you now have four equal lines. Place all four loops over one of the stakes and go back to the loose ends. Pull each line individually and compare them to each other. Should one of them be slightly long you can add a double overhand knot into the longer line's loop to easily shorten it.

Next affix your handles and pull 'em up tight, again compare the two sides and insure they are perfectly aligned, top and bottoms of each side. Finally mark either the tops or the bottom lines with the Sharpie. If you've got two pens mark each line, for example I use Red on the tops and blue on the bottoms. If I grabbed a set that was only colored once I'd still know where they go on the other end at the kite.

At the end of the day, land the kite and remove the flying lines. Place them over a stake and go back to the handles. Pull 'em tight and see if they still align perfectly. Should one line be slightly longer you know a double overhand knot will suffice to bring them back to the perfection you have established as a standard. Now you can either wind the lines over a card, or just wrap 'em around the handles. If you intend to wrap around the handles, you have to bring all four lines to a central point on the foam and pinch 'em in place before you start winding. At the very end, force the four lines inbetween the foam to hold everything together until you next flight.

NEVER let anyone else wind up your lines and always wind them up under tension!

Next time you are ready to use the lines again just unwrap enough of the length to place a stake inbetween the two lines and walk backwards unwinding under tension. When you get to the ends of the lines, separate the handles and pull 'em tight. All the twists will proceed back to the stake and you will not have any problems with nesting, tangles or twists. If you wrap up your lines over a winding card do one side first and then place the other side on top of the first two lines. Again you'll never have a big problem if you wind and unwind under tension.

Always tie off the top & bottom (on each side) before winding.


Thank you for your thorough response and for posting the photos. That information is very helpful.
I purchased a shorted lineset (50'). Someday I will learn to make my own linesets and use your instructions.

#4 Watty

Watty

    Forum Veteran

  • Forum Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,867 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vancouver, WA

Posted 19 April 2007 - 06:27 PM

you might enjoy a short set for those very low wind days or if you wanted to work on slack line & trick flying. A "throw & catch" on 85 feet is really quite tough, .... I'd say you'd need a set more like 50 feet to learn to do this stuff reliably.



I actually learned this on 30' line. It was really easy to do with line this short. And it's a lot of fun to just have really short lines.

Spence "Watty" Watson

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

 


#5 antman

antman

    king of wildwood

  • Forum Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,213 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:kitefliers underground

Posted 20 April 2007 - 01:58 PM

i have 40 60 85 100 and im getting 120 foot lines once you have all of those you can fly in anything get a couplle rolls of spectra 1 90 and one 150 # and you can make a few lines sets also get some sleeving kits too.. if you get the rolls of spectra get them in 1000 feet
GOD PUT ME HERE. TO ENJOY THE WINDS




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users