[Theresa]

Khal, on 25 July 2011 - 11:53 AM, said:

I think You can also get them from Theresa at The Kite Shop (http://thekiteshoppe.com/) though I couldn't find them on the website. I'm not sure if Scott Weider (http://magicquadsticks.com/Welcome.html) sells them directly or not.

Hi Brian,

Yes, Scott has made up some Quad Sticks and they are here at The Kite Shoppe. Not on the web site as yet, as he wants to add some instructions for set-up when we package them
His are 16"
I hope to pin him down to writing and finishing this up when he gets back here in a couple weeks.

[REVflyer]

The magic Stick modification is a nice rig after you get used to it, I'm currently using both sizes (12 & 16) and just too lazy to make 'em all match. I make my own and buy 'em pre-packaged occasionally as well. If you do it yourself, you'll have less knots. The Visa Card purchased path requires you to install it from the shipping container/package. Compromises are always made to simplify in manufacturing or when the public is asked to do part of the install. All the commercial sets have 7 truss lines that you install onto end-caps sporting four short legs and the corners of the kite. You larks-head the lines according to color markings (from a diagram) to the kite's end-caps and then onto the magic sticks. I recommend if you do it yourself you use only three lines and have the line pass-thru and exit out the same side (hole) so no knots on the ends.

maybe this will help speed the process?

Attached thumbnail(s)

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[Khal]

REVflyer, on 26 July 2011 - 06:43 AM, said:

The magic Stick modification is a nice rig after you get used to it, I'm currently using both sizes (12 & 16) and just too lazy to make 'em all match. I make my own and buy 'em pre-packaged occasionally as well. If you do it yourself, you'll have less knots. The Visa Card purchased path requires you to install it from the shipping container/package. Compromises are always made to simplify in manufacturing or when the public is asked to do part of the install. All the commercial sets have 7 truss lines that you install onto end-caps sporting four short legs and the corners of the kite. You larks-head the lines according to color markings (from a diagram) to the kite's end-caps and then onto the magic sticks. I recommend if you do it yourself you use only three lines and have the line pass-thru and exit out the same side (hole) so no knots on the ends.

maybe this will help speed the process?

Thanks for the info Paul.

If I do it with three lines, is there a convenient way to adjust the length/tension of the lines? With the seven line version, each standoff endcap has 4 short pigtails with spaced knots for adjustment.

[REVflyer]

here's a diagram with both ways laid-out., The one on the bottom is how the commercial version comes. The one on the top is how you'd do it yourself with less knots. I "paint" the wraps with black nail polish afterwards so nothing can slip, (but I do that painting with my bridles too!)

Attached File(s)

•  Truss line & Caps.pdf (733.17K)
  Number of downloads: 99

[Khal]

REVflyer, on 26 July 2011 - 02:51 PM, said:

here's a diagram with both ways laid-out., The one on the bottom is how the commercial version comes. The one on the top is how you'd do it yourself with less knots. I "paint" the wraps with black nail polish afterwards so nothing can slip, (but I do that painting with my bridles too!)

Thanks again. Those are great illustrations. You've really gone above and beyond to make everything clear, so please bear with me.

Why do you say that the commercial version (with the pigatils) is less effective due to the extra knots? Are they just possible snag points or is there another problem? My commerical rig has even more knots, since there are extra knots on each pigtail to adjust the tension in each line independently.

Which leads to my other question. With the 3-line version, how do you adjust the tension? Is it a matter of making the lines to the exact length and leaving them that way? Or is there a trick to it? I'm sure this is a newbie question. I've never tied a bridle or made my own linesets, so maybe this is obvious to someone more experienced.

I like the nail polish tip too.

[REVflyer]

if you're rolling the kite into the lines on the ground or significantly piling up slack lines on the ground while flailing EVERY tangle point is a concern. If it only catches one time on the extra knot of the commercial version, maybe that one time is during your demonstration or at a competition. Using the three line method you make each set of sticks specifically for one kite and you shouldn't change anything. The commercially ones are great, I use those, but my very best kites (all Bazzer Pros) have 'em custom fitted to each kite. The SUL B-series Pro even has the (cut-down one inch) shortening of the down-spars so the stick ends at the bottom of the sail. This also forces weight more forward towards the leading edge, altering the glide (favorably in my opinion).

I can still catch a flying line, but not very often and only when pushing the envelope with some extreme jerkin' and slack line movements.

The best way to learn is to buy a commercial one, see how it goes and then if you want to try it your self re-use those parts or source some of your own. Most folks are lazy (myself included) I'd rather go fly then spend time building. Sometimes you have to fiddle with it yourself when you know how you want it to feel and it doesn't. I started off not knowing which end of the cable wire plugs in for electricity to come thru,... I'm certainly not handy!

You can do this kind of junk, but practice first, particularly if your tying knots into spectra. There's no second chance here. You CAN add small overhead knots, to make it shorter, a little at a time. So if you make big loops you can change the overall length gradually if necessary. Big loops are going to "suspend snag points" which can potentially catch a flying line when rolled up though. If you practice you'll know EXACTLY how much length is taken up in the knot you're proposing to use, so you can position these snag points to your liking. I recommend the figure of eight knot, but it it tightens in both directions. You need to force all the tightening out thru one of the loops, only a visual demonstation will explain how this is accomplished, afterwards it will seem as easy as exhaling. If you don't want to do all of this work, pick-up the phone, pull out your Visa Card and wait a couple of days by the mail-box. It's commercially available and darn effective right out of the package.

[Khal]

Thanks for all the advice Paul. So far I'm really liking the 12" commercial sticks I've got on my B std. I'm curious to see how different 16" sticks will be. Now I know how to tie them.

[REVflyer]

the easiest difference to notice is if the kite is standing up (leading edge up) on the ground and you simply stepped forward dramatically towards the kite. The kite should roll all the way over with the flying lines wrapped around the kite over the top, sail face down.

Shorter sticks will resist the action, but you're still getting most of the sissy benefits. Stiffness, kick-stands, better glide, less chance to snag a flying line, etc. I use both sizes but the longer ones do have a specific purpose. It's the ability to roll it up by simply releasing the air-pressure on the sail suddenly and allowing the wind to flip it over. With practice you should be able to overcome the shortness with a snappy wrist flick AND a step forward.

[ahofer]

Scott made me a set and installed them last week. I got my first chance to fly them today. I felt like I was cheating. Everything you do with relatively slack lines is a little easier - glide, axel, cartwheel through the window. You don't run as much risk of one side suddenly flipping or collapsing because you haven't been precise with moving the line tension in your hands.

I don't care for the extra set-up steps, or the way the kite rolls up. I was worried I would snag them, but I never did. In fact the line stayed under the kite a little better than without them.

They seem useful for flying alone here at the tree-surrounded Princeton Athletic Fields (http://www.kitemap.org/site-details?id=137&sname=Princeton/Washington%20Road%20Fields), where the wind can be both light and dirty.

[Theresa]

ahofer, on 05 September 2011 - 02:09 PM, said:

Scott made me a set and installed them last week. I got my first chance to fly them today. I felt like I was cheating. Everything you do with relatively slack lines is a little easier -

Great!! We thank you for your patience!!

And yes, another package is headed your way

Have fun flying!!
T

[ahofer]

I took them off today. Something isn't the same. It may be that the extra packing hassle harshed my buzz, or the lack of feedback when I'm not precise with my handles. Either way, I feel like flying without 'em is better for me.

I also replaced the SUL bridle, which was also annoying me. I keep thinking there must be something in between the two bridle weights that would work. LPG 150...or the leader/sleeve weight that Theresa puts on her LPG set-ups?

[stroke survivor]

ahofer, on 08 January 2012 - 04:32 PM, said:

I took them off today. Something isn't the same. It may be that the extra packing hassle harshed my buzz, or the lack of feedback when I'm not precise with my handles. Either way, I feel like flying without 'em is better for me.

I also replaced the SUL bridle, which was also annoying me. I keep thinking there must be something in between the two bridle weights that would work. LPG 150...or the leader/sleeve weight that Theresa puts on her LPG set-ups?

I've bought sleeving material from Theresa, it's 90# bridle line, with the core line removed to use as sleeving!!