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Rev Indoor tuning


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#21 Baloo

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:09 PM

Here ya go choccy,

Here's my indoor handles as purchased. . . . they're 14" and the top leaders are 8" with knots at 7" and 6". They're pure graphite handles with soft foam (like on the EXP handles) . . .

JB - when you talk about extended leaders on the top at the kite - are you just adding extra 50lb line for this??

thanks

Marty

Looks like the "D" rings have been taken off. Presumably to take away a snag point??

#22 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:44 PM

Ya, that's the idea.

Although, when the lines are larksheaded onto the top leaders (handle), they still make a knot that can snag.

Best way to get around that, use a softer (much more flexible) material for the leaders, instead of the heavier dacron.

Myself, I don't mess with it, I just keep my hands and lines clean while I fly... Rarely an issue.

John Barresi

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#23 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:45 PM

Please comment on this concept. I made a REV 2 for indoors. Using race rods and 1/2 oz sail material. Using B series handles. I have adjusted the lines so that when I am flying with the kite vertical in 360 all 4 lines are taunt. This way when I reverse I have immediate response. BTW I have never flown a REV Indoor so I have no experience indoors on REVs. Does this sound like the right balance between forward and reverse.

Depends on your style I suppose, but it sounds right for me. ;)

Lam Hoac for example, would tend to fly with much less brake, as he tends to float the kite indoors more, as opposed than powering it around (which I prefer).

John Barresi

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#24 Watty

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:53 PM

Here's my input.

I always use my B-Series handles on every kite I own. The only reason for this is because I lost my indoor handles. lol
The pigtails on my kite are unchanged, and the lines are attached to the ends of the lines. On my handles, I have the lines pulled one knot back on the break lines.

I find that all this gives me the ability to go fast and do tricks, but also do the whole slow and lofty type of thing. (but I prefer the fast with tricks).

When setting up my indoor for the first time, I simply used trial and error. I started with the settings I used when I flew outdoors, and went from there.

Spence "Watty" Watson

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#25 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:56 PM

We'll have to compare settings and characteristics Watty, if we can pull an indoor clinic together here in the NW after New Years.

Still have to find a decent venue, where we can get a full day in (8am-5pm would be ideal). :blue-confused:

If anyone in Washington has access to such a place, that won't cost an arm and a leg, please send me an email or PM?

John Barresi

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#26 Watty

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 06:17 PM

I think my school would be a great place for it, but I'm not sure how many people would be willing to come over here during the winter.

Spence "Watty" Watson

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#27 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 07:08 PM

I think, a simple rule of thumb is that the site be within 10-15 minutes of a major highway (in the event any snow).

This would be a one day affair, so people can make it a day trip (within 3 hours from their home).

Seem sensible?

John Barresi

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#28 jburka

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 07:57 PM

Lam Hoac for example, would tend to fly with much less brake, as he tends to float the kite indoors more, as opposed than powering it around (which I prefer).


That's why I like to fly on my 17" handles -- they're tuned for that sort of powering around, but the extreme throw (not only 17", but also much more angled than the rev indoor handles) also allows me to float the kite as flat as I want.

#29 steveb

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 08:38 PM

Well said Simon, it's also the premise of the style we've been teaching on the B-Series over the past year.

Anyone have a pic handy, of the indoor handles?

Here's my set of Indoor handles from my first Indoor Rev.
They may have changed since then.
indoor_outdoor_handles.jpg

#30 deebs1596

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:33 PM

are the leaders off the indoor handles standard leader material or is it made of a lighter material?
----Dan-----

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i fly what i can and stare at what i cant.

#31 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:36 PM

As long as we're on the topic of tuning an Indoor Rev, sail tension is also a factor.

On my kites, I do not like the sail loose at all... Not drawn drum tight mind you, just pulling out the slack.

If it's too tight, not only is your frame more stressed (torqued), but the sail will tend to stretch faster.

If it's too loose, for my tastes, it creates variables in the surface of the sail (ripples), which I don't care for.

Anyone have their own preferences with regard to sail tension?

John Barresi

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#32 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:40 PM

are the leaders off the indoor handles standard leader material or is it made of a lighter material?

It's cored bridle material, a little stiff, imho.

John Barresi

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#33 deebs1596

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:47 PM

i wouldve thought hollow core bridle line was used. On the set i made i used some sleeving material
Only drawback was that it would stretch a little(maybe 1/8") before kite responded
----Dan-----

lost in thought or lost in a field... either way send a search party

i fly what i can and stare at what i cant.

#34 Kitelife

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 11:00 PM

On some of my handles, I'm liking 90# spectra, doubled up (like the B-Series leaders - but with spectra instead).

Thick enough (x2) to work with, knots are large enough to larks head onto (but not too big), and it's still light/flexible.

Not ideal for average outdoor flying, but nice for light wind or indoor.

John Barresi

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#35 mousieo

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 12:43 PM

As long as we're on the topic of tuning an Indoor Rev, sail tension is also a factor.

On my kites, I do not like the sail loose at all... Not drawn drum tight mind you, just pulling out the slack.

If it's too tight, not only is your frame more stressed (torqued), but the sail will tend to stretch faster.

If it's too loose, for my tastes, it creates variables in the surface of the sail (ripples), which I don't care for.

Anyone have their own preferences with regard to sail tension?


I was wondering about that .. I have a bit too much give in my indoor I THINK.. not enough experience yet to know. But I do know that I am really having to power my reverse in order to keep it. Would that have anything to do with that? I do have my lines longer on the top. Tried the extensions, but I was a little too shaky still to deal with those at Camas.


A lot to learn yet...
Mousie

#36 Kitelife

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 02:29 PM

Having the right leaders will help the most IMHO, but sail tension may be a factor too.

Experiment, let us know what you find. ;)

John Barresi

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#37 boomzilla

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 07:18 AM

still looking for some good close up photos of the endcap configuration...am in the process of converting to endcaps...bottom vertical endcaps were easy...top vert endcaps, do you use bungie cord, or some string...for the horizontal caps, how do you configure bungies with only one hole...photos & information please...g
glenn pickard
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#38 Kitelife

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 06:35 PM

Ah, missed this somehow... Sorry!

I put my end caps on the same way as I would for a regular 1.5 (all four tips)... For the end caps at the top of the verticals (on the LE), I use 100# dacron bridle material (non-cored), same method as you would with bunji, but tied real close to the LE itself.

Not so tight they can't be moved easily during assembly, etc, but tight enough to keep them from sticking far up off the LE.

There's no secret method, you actually re-use most of the parts, changing out only the caps. ;)

John Barresi

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#39 boomzilla

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 06:38 PM

there is only one hole on the horizontal sail for the bungies...do you insert both ends into the one hole or use the bungie as a single line...this is why i asked for photos...g
glenn pickard
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#40 Kitelife

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 07:07 PM

I see.

On the "horizontal sail", or where the verticals meet the LE, just run the dacron line through (one end), then through the end cap, and tie both ends together cleanly (low profile knot). ;)

John Barresi

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