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Seeking advice on how to stack Rev's...


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#101 SparkieRob

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 08:02 AM

In general you should be okay in mild winds.
You could consider changing the front REV rods to the "Revolution Equipped"(4 wrap). That includes the SLE rods in RE. These are normally the rods on the REV 1.5 vented, not the JB. No need to special order tougher rods on a fiver.
As I was training my REVs together before REV ever sold the them as trains, I developed several ways to do the trains. The pig tails method is what I use the most. As I have used this method for over 10 years, I am not sure whether I developed it or maybe saw the idea on Sam Riiter's trains. I don't even remember anymore how he connected his REV trains together.
The attached picture should explain how I do my train lines.


JM, with respect to the pigtail attachment, are they simply larksed onto the end caps or a hybrid larkshead/half hitch? Looking at the photo close up looks a bit different from just a larkshead.

Rob

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#102 RevWizard

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:08 AM

I would call it a hybrid in that it looks like a square knot at the knot area.
There is that extra loop added.
It does not slip loose like a simple larks head.

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#103 SparkieRob

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:30 AM

Thanks for clearing that up. I made up 3 kites worth of pigtails (21) in a quiet time at work today and hopefully putting them on tomorrow.

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#104 hyzakite

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 10:54 AM

I've looked in the stack topics for specifics on materials used for stacking but I can't locate the info I want to know.

 

I have some Rev 1's I want to make a 6-pack with, the info I can't locate is.

 

1. What is the stack lines made of, and what strength # would be right for 6 rev 1's or more?

2. What is the bridle strength # used for this 6 pack?

3. On the leading edges I'm limited to 4wrap and lighter, as all the leading edges are tied together is there any need for more than 4wraps?



#105 mystainedskin

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 02:58 PM

I have read threads on this somewhere but cant recall... I do remember a story mentioning custom 6 wraps in a dedicated stack that size. I will try to find a link later.
 

#106 stroke survivor

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:27 AM

I've looked in the stack topics for specifics on materials used for stacking but I can't locate the info I want to know.

 

I have some Rev 1's I want to make a 6-pack with, the info I can't locate is.

 

1. What is the stack lines made of, and what strength # would be right for 6 rev 1's or more?

2. What is the bridle strength # used for this 6 pack?

3. On the leading edges I'm limited to 4wrap and lighter, as all the leading edges are tied together is there any need for more than 4wraps?

6 Rev 1s would be quite the stack!!! I'd check with Kent @ AWOC for more stacking info!! He'll more than likely have the right lines or at least can steer you in the right direction for lines and rods!!


wayne from portland
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#107 hyzakite

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 02:51 PM

I'm sure Kent will pop in and share his info, I'm not looking at pulling my arms out, I want to fly it  like a Rev 2, lightly, so how can I "dial in" this stack?



#108 awindofchange

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:00 PM

Hiya Hyza,

 

Usually the more rev's you stack, the more sluggish the kites become.  They also pull like a truck, especially when you start to get over 4 kites.  Even my 5 stack of Rev II's can have some solid pull in them when the winds pick up.

 

For a 6 stack, I would suggest a minimum of 250# lines, I have 300# lines on my 8 stack of 1.5's.  I have buggied with it in 10 mph winds. LOL

 

There are a lot of tuning you can do, most of the tuning is to get the stack to follow correctly and get more precision out of it.  I have found on nearly every stack I have done that you will need to pull in the top lines at least 2 inches, probably more like 3 or 4 inches to get the best control and ease the pull.  This lets you fly without ripping your arms out of their sockets, but more importantly, makes the stack behave much easier.  Without pulling in the tops, the stack will always try to flip on you when hovering or stalling/landing.  Small stacks like 2 or 3 can hover pretty good when tuned in properly, more kites than that then you will probably not want to try hovering them at all. :)

 

Tuning in the stack can take a very long time to do but it is soooo worth it in the end.  Start with all stack lines equal (*except the center ones, those are always going to be different depending on how you attach the front kite to the next and so on).  Fly the stack and then adjust the lines as you see necessary depending on how the kites are behaving.  Usually I pull in about .5 to 1 inch on the very last kite bottoms, this usually helps with the 'chasing' and keeps that last kite more in check.  That's a good place to start and then work forward as needed.

 

As for frames, with a 6 stack you may need to beef up the front kite or two with either the 4 wrap SLE rod, or contact me and we can work with Rev to custom build you a couple stiffer rods, like 6 wraps or something.  The reason you need to beef up the front kite (or two) is because all the other kites are hanging off of the front one and it is in a constant tug or war between the flying lines and the rear kites.  This puts a ton of stress on the frame.  If stacking less than 3 kites then you can usually use whatever frames the kites come with, more than that you may need to beef them up.  As you are stating lightly, meaning light winds (I assume), you may not need the extra strength frames, but if a gust hits you may be in trouble.

 

Hope this helps, let me know if you need any other info and I will help out as much as possible.



#109 hyzakite

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 05:30 PM

Sounds like a good start, on the 250# or 300# lines, would that be the line set? or the stack lines? and what about the bridle? In Laser Pro Bridle line it's 100# for sul's and 180# for standard 1's 1.5's and 2's to my understanding,, would it be reasonable to assume that 300# bridle line is needed as well?

 

I have some 5 and 6wrap 1.5 rods, that doesn't do a Rev 1 any good, but while it is mentioned to use a 4wrap frame and slide a 2 or 3wrap leading edge into the leading edge pocket to increase the ability to fly a 1.5B in even higher winds, would using that method in the first 2 Rev 1's in the stack

stiffen it up? Actually the 1/4" rods slide right into the SLE rods for another way possible way of stiffening up the leading edge, I'm not sure how much stress is on the verticals to warrant need for 5 or 6wraps.

 

So far the list is

210' stack line.

320' of line set line.

35' or so of bridle line.



#110 awindofchange

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 07:03 PM

Yes, 300# would be the lineset.  For stacking more than 3, you may want to go with a heavier bridle as well.  Stack lines usually aren't an issue because you are using 7 of them so the 180# stack lines should work no problem.

 

I have never tried double stacking the leading edges in a stack, just used the larger stiffer rods.  I leave all my stacks together though and don't take them apart to fly solo so it isn't an issue.






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